Live 365. His clothes were torn and dirty as he stood there by my bed. He took off his three-cornered hat and speaking low to me, he said, We've fought a revolution to secure our liberty. We wrote the Constitution as a shield from tyranny. For future generations, this legacy we gave. In this, the land of the free and home of the brave. The freedoms we secured for you, we hoped you'd always keep. But tyrants labored endlessly while your parents were asleep. Your freedom's gone, your courage lost, you're no more than a slave. Invist the land of the free and home of the brave. You buy permits to travel and permits to own a gun. Permits to start a business or to build a place for one. On land that you believe you own, you pay a yearly rent. Although you have no voice in saying how the money's spent. Your children must attend a school that doesn't educate, and your Christian values can't be taught according to the state. You read about the current news in a regulated press, and you pay a tax you do not owe to please the IRS. Your money is no longer made of silver nor of gold. You trade your wealth for paper so your life can be controlled. You pay for crimes that make our nation turn from God and shame. You've taken Satan's number. You've traded in your name. You've given government control to those who do you harm so they could burn down churches and seize the family farm and keep our country deep in debt. Put men of God in jail. Harash your fellow countrymen while corrupted courts prevail. Your public servants don't uphold the solemn oaths they've sworn. And your daughters visit doctors so their children won't be born. Your leaders send artillery and guns to foreign shores and send your sons to slaughter fighting other people's wars. Can you regain the freedoms for which we fought and died? Or don't you have the courage or the faith to stand with pride? And are there no more values for which you'll fight to save? Or do you wish your children to live in fear and be a slave? Both sons of the Republic arise, take a stand, defend the Constitution, the Supreme Law of the land, preserve our great Republic and each God given right, and pray to God, keep the torture freedom bright. As I awoke, he'd vanished in the mist for whence he came. His words were true, we are not free, but we have ourselves to blame. For even now as tyrants trampled each God given right we only watch and tremble too afraid to stand and fight If he stood by your bedside in a dream while you were asleep and wondered what remains of the freedoms he'd fought to keep What would be your answer if he called out from the grave? Is this still the land of the first hour of the after intelligence report I'm our quirky one day closer to victory for all of our brothers and sisters both on and behind the lines in occupied territories east, southeast, west, and north. Well ladies and gentlemen you are listening to us on... BritishRudio.4mg.com IndianaFreedomTalkRadio.com We're on AM and FM micro stations, CB base stations. and UltraNet Technologies east and west of the Mississippi along with Alaska. We're on the hallmark network from the top of Maine to the bottom of Florida, from the bottom of Florida across the arc of the Gulf of Mexico. Headed to Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas, Oklahoma, big chunk of Nebraska, a whole bunch of Wyoming to include both the third, the fifth, and our friends in the recall state of Colorado waving the left coast where we have a great state of Jefferson and the rest of our friends out there. We turn back to the east, sweep across the plains, leap over the burgeoning banks of the Mississippi and land in the Smokies. Where the restaurant crews, grandma teams, okay teams, and the Ma Bell Grandma Consortium bring us the Golden Spike. Many hands make for light work a million petticoat junction operators. The ability to continue to function when everything else is offline. and Soviet Socialist Occupation of America with a K2014 Old Earth Calendar or Mayan Crazy Town and Nostradamus! That's right, the football coach man from that Northern Illinois football was Indiana football team man, yeah, whatever. Dude, Notre Dame-us, Nostradamus, Nostradus. I know it's got an end in it somewhere and the North Dakota That's it, it's North Dakota! The predictions of North Dakota. That's right, that's a state! Yeah, I know, hey. Nostradamus, North Dakota, Nicholas Dunderhead, what difference does it make? You're doomed! We're all gonna die. So anyway, beyond the we're doomed, we're all gonna die routine, comes, well, life in America with a K. So, uh... Let's see, what have we got going real quick here? I mentioned a repair kit. Somebody's saying, well, do you have to buy from Tractor Supply? Well, of course not. You can buy from wherever you want. We were talking about nuts, bolts, washers, and screw repair kit. Now, the one thing I did mention Through bolts, 1,25 inch, 5,16, yes, I'd even go bigger than that, but remember that you can usually make up the difference there with, for instance, if you have a 7,16, what's the bore diameter, the cross diameter of the nut that goes on a 5,16 bolt? So what I mentioned before is when you screw the two short, well, first of all, two lock washers, two standard washers, two fender washers, screw on a couple of extra nuts to go on that particular piece of stock. I just did one I got for free the other day. I bought a bag full of nuts, bolts, and washers from Tractor Supply. Every time I go there I get a couple dollars worth. and preferably washers, lock washers, nuts, because those are what you're going to lose. Bolts not as likely. But the cool thing is I keep running into big long lag bolts for free. I just got about, oh, a handful of maybe two or three pounds for free. Brand new. Probably came from tractor supply. Looks of the same finish. But anyway, I just put them together in the kind of kit we're talking about. Two lock washers, two standard washers, two fender washers, and then three bolts. Forgive me, three nuts on the individual long bolt. The bolt that I just did here, just a few minutes ago before I came in the program, is a six-incher. Virtually, it's virgin. Like I said, it looks like it probably came from the tractor supply inventory or something like that. Anyway, somebody else paid a stupid price for it and I got it for free. So it goes into the inventory. But what I was also mentioning were self-tapping sheet metal screws. Now, I didn't qualify something here because there are, you know, pan There is also beveled. Now pan header which you would prefer for most instances, but I will point out something. Flush face or beveled will suck the metal in and tractor it in. If you continue to add torque and you have something that is eating into below, which is kind of nice, so it will flush. If it is sheet metal, it is fairly thin. If it is heavier gauge, nah, you are not going to move it. If it is 1 1 6 inch, uh-uh. But I would point out, excuse me, I'm going to grab it in a quarter. I would point out that panhead, there are, if you look around, sometimes you can find these. I just got a bunch of them. At one of the resale shops, one of the restore type shops in the area is about five or six of me, check out, I go to some for a few days, and I'll go to check another one out if we're passing by. Well, you've got some that actually have the equivalent to a panhead large enough that it almost has a washer dimension to it. These are especially good for bonding two pieces of sheet metal together and not pulling through. And usually they are threaded right to the face of the screw. Some have a standoff of maybe 1.8 of an inch, depending on how big, how deep and how long the screw is. You want something that's going to run right up to the pan, right up to the base of the screw, so that it sucks it right together, brings everything right together, locks in. What's really cool about that is, like these, I got about probably 1,000, 2,000 screws for a whopping $1.40. I mean, they're 1.5 inch and 3.25 inch. There's two different batches. I got two different boxes. Obviously came from somebody's shop. And already sorted and already in containers. All I had to do, like shelf containers, all I had to do was take them home and make a mine. And again, take a quantity of those. Here's a little trick. I've got in my hand one of these. In fact, this one was a zinc medicine bottle. Brown, green, blue, take your pick doesn't make any difference. You might want to use these for, obviously, vitamins and medicine or whatever anyway, but these are especially good for small screws and repair items like this. Whatever you empty something like this out, they've got a standard lid, not a safety children's cap, but these are just regular vitamin bottles. Now this one has already been, I put a blank label on it from the CD labelers that we use up when we're done with them. There is a couple of name titled plates and stuff. We don't use them. I use them for marking things. So this container will be identified as far as dimension for whatever goes into it. And then it goes into the kit we were talking about. I've got about five or six of these saved up again to make up a couple more auto kits. I've got pretty much everything sitting on the shelf. I just have to gingerbread it all together and congratulations. I'll probably get two more kits out of the deal the way it looks. And those will go with the Jeeps or they'll go with the, you know, the little truck and the other one will go with one of the other trucks. So the idea is just keep building them. You're not going to lose a thing on them. Parts is parts and nuts, bolts and screws. You'll always find a need for them. Okay, it's just that simple. So again, that was tractors apply to dollar depending where you are in the country It varies from one part of the country to the next depending upon how much your area makes They've jacked the price up here. Of course, it has gone up in general China sport. The dollar is worth less now I think it's a dollar 89 will get you a pound worth of threaded stock You can't beat it guys. Grab a bag and fill up a pounds worth or two pounds worth of mixed metal. Put it on the shelf. Or just grab one flavor every time you go in. Grab one flavor of this, one flavor of that, and put them on the shelf. You're not going to lose a penny, but if you need them, they're priceless. And with some of the stuff we're doing right now, got another APC project I'm working on. In fact, I had to Go dig out some equipment I had built for another Bren gun carrier. The bring gun carrier parts are all where they belong. This was for adding and upgrading the Bren gun carrier. It'll work just fine on what I've got. That somebody else has to fix up and dress up a little bit. So again, nuts, bolts, and screws. Wherever I can, we go stainless on the inside. And obviously carbon steel, where we have to in the hardened bolts. but stainless so that way when we take off a cover, a pan, a relief cover for spray or one of the radiator covers they come off that much easier and even the stainless we still grease it up. Still lubed up before it goes together that way it will be that much easier to take apart if you're in a hurry you're trying to get something done. See how that works? Just remember that. Anyway Again, that's tractor supply. But any supply you have, we've got another thing called O-wees here, and they're starting to get into some bulk industrial stuff, kind of like Big Lot used to do. Definitely worthwhile and something you want to be taking a serious look at because, for instance, for less than a dollar, glass, lens, safety lights, like running lights for vehicles, dollar apiece. The whole fixture is all metal, it's all well made. Really well made probably from the 70's or early 80's. And where they got them? I don't know. Talk about somewhere. But you know what? For a dollar a piece, awful handy for vehicles and such to set up fog lights. And as a matter of fact, that's exactly what we just did with the set of them. But also for other lights for vehicles or equipment that may be missing some, I'll give you another set of spots or a backup light or whatever without having to spend a whole lot built like a brick dog house. Very well constructed. As far as the light fixture goes, hey plug in LED. If you're worried about ultra bright, you can grab ultra bright LEDs. It will go into any fixture you have. No matter what the base is, they're making them for everything. Go to www.dealextreme.com. dealxtreme.com, dealxtreme.com, or dx.com. When you get there, wow, Shazam, Sergeant Carter, look at that. Let's see, what else do we have? Well, online service, Windows, Google, and Apple, except it's chicom slash Commusport. What else? Now, also, cabling. You know, it's something I had in my hand here a few minutes ago, steel cable. Now if you run into steel cable of any kind, coil it and save it. Coil it and save it. Coil it and save it. It's one of those odd man out things. One of the things you can do with steel cable is make an arbalisk. Just understand your tensile, your strengths and weaknesses with regard to the range of performance. With the cable you might be able to acquire. But remember that for building steel arbalisks, that's for throwing, it's like a giant crossbow. 600 pound, 700 pound prod. Even up to a thousand pounds you build them with truck springs Steel cable, that's what you want ideally garage door cable can take a whole lot of abuse And we've already experimented with the garage door cable before worked exceptionally well we were thrown six foot pieces of half-inch water pipe with a sharpened you know spear point on the end fin stabilized to the couple of fins in the base and Well, over 800 to 1,000 yards, we lost the first bolt. Never found it even though we controlled the property where it was fired should have shish kebab right into the ground where it could be accessible We know it went beyond a tree line. We expected it to hit before the tree line the first shot Well turns out we had a little more energy there than we expected so the next shot We were a little more cautious about how we aimed it now that we had an idea of performance after the first bolt was Initially, you know, well, we were gonna get it back We were short, we only had three bolts made so we lost one, had two left, but we better get better at it because we want to be able to harpoon cars. Lo and behold, easily throwing a 6 foot piece of half inch iron water pipe, a couple of thin darts to the rear, and a sharp, dark point to the front. Yeah harpooning cars kids or anything else you want to unscrew the that point and put something on it with larger You know like say shall we say half pound or two pound charge and a fuse and? kaboom Wow and very quiet too you got the kachunk at that end kachunk and then very silent traveling through the air and then at the other end a boom Wow, that's kind of neat no warning order at all and fairly low trajectory, especially point to point, more like a field gun rather than an artillery howitzer, like a toad howitzer piece. Really get it cool. Anyway, as it is, the cables, your number of different projects where if you want to try and secure something, wrap something, and then tie or wrap it and bind it down, cable is much stronger than rope, obviously. It may also have other applications with regard to just simply hanging something. Now coat hangers, nothing should go in the kit for that very reason. We'll mark it all with duct tape and coat hangers. Well, why not? It works. So one of the things taken into consideration there again is the better coat hangers, don't let them go to waste. I don't throw coat hangers out even if they're rusty. Do much fence to repair, too many things to fix. Every once in a while you need something where you snip two pieces of that coat hanger, you open it up and wrap it real quick. Wow, you're done. Like a big bread tie made out of coat hanger. Works pretty well. So anyway, Mark, go ahead, call her, jump in there. Why are strong across the road at neck level that does a lot of damage too? Oh yeah, well there again, see steel cables. No matter how long a piece is, but any size you run into, I save everything. It's like copper wire. I don't cut, I don't cut Ronex. I just keep longer pieces around that somebody else cut too long. And I haven't had to buy copper for anything, nor have I had to cut too many of my, anything off rolls for quite some time. The same is true with pieces like this. There's all kinds of mean stuff you can do with them for making snares, booby traps. Like I said, crossbows. And of course, if you've got enough of a length, yep, you stretch that across the road at night. And even with vehicles, unless they have a, which eventually they will catch on and do, unless they have an anti-wire bar slash guide, that's what they had on the Jeeps in World War II. You also notice though, they put them on trucks, medium and small trucks. Because hey that piece of steel cable across the road properly anchored in that truck doing 45 miles an hour Truck does all the work to rip the cab off or rip their heads off if it's a soft top It's all she wrote doesn't have to go all the way through I mean, yeah, maybe it just cuts half the way through and then the cable breaks Wow, I guess half a dead is still dead, isn't it? Yeah, see, plus motorcycles, other things. So the, nothing else, it does vehicle damage. I mean, just the idea, it just messes with things, because eventually you figure out, well, if you can put a cable across there, and I didn't see it and I run into it, what happens if you put a cable across the road and it launches or fires something? Oh, man, that's kind of embarrassing. See, so there's all kinds of mean things you can do with cable. But also flails. Remember, if something's traveling, they can run through it if it doesn't cut something or break something on the vehicle. If you set it up so with enough strength it actually will break free, or it just might happen, the stance it does, more junk going down the road and wrapping around whatever's there causes more conflict and discernment on the part of the driver. In many cases they don't want it when they can hear a lot of noise or strangling and drangling. If they think they're secure they may stop to find out what they hooked up on or dragged into the vehicle. That's enough to put them in a kill zone. An ambush doesn't have to be 500 people. An ambush can be one rifleman with a night scope who just puts one round into the target and then just goes, look, the driver's out and plop. Well, the driver's not getting up. By the time I said driver not getting up, you're already the first 100, 200 feet back the way you came down your planned avenue of evacuation. You're on the four wheeler because the other guy's got it running ready to go and you're already heading down the back trail. Yeah, there's going to be a lot of horses in the backwoods, I guarantee you that. But there are a lot of shouts on horseback. Oh yeah, well whatever it is, it'll move faster than a human. If all else fails, beat feet. Remember that another thing I pointed out in the Battle for the Republic books are what we call gun ambushes. See, most people picture, and in fact, like in Vietnam and during many other ambush situations, the average engagement range for a lot of special warfare ambush activity was 11 feet. Typically, what the guys would do in travel till just after dusk, pull off the trail that they knew they'd already been on the trail they wanted to be on. They'd pull off the trail by 11 feet, dig in. This is something most people don't realize. They'd actually dig in. and about controlling the spoil of your dig. By doing so, you are almost impossible to identify. Well, that's what the guys would do. At 11 feet off the trail, they would all be, of course, in position. The farthest control officer, or NCO, would be the guy that would activate the ambush by firing on the objective. And everybody just fired on everything that was 11 feet at point blank range in front of their position. Because they were low to the ground, right off the bat, dug in already, and they were willing to engage at close, close range, pretty much they did devastating damage to the group that was trying to move through the area. Most everybody is thinking standing or at least an upright position of some kind, not dug in. That's an example. Again, prep positions or prep ambushes and going after the aggressor using, again, minimal force maximum surgical energy. A gun ambush though, you don't get that close. In fact, think about farm fields. Driver, you're all over the countryside. Look to your left and right when you're moving. How many tree lines are there patched back and forth? So if you look, you have a shooting lane with a certain area into a control point of, say, a road, a bend in the road or a straight line in the road where there's no cover, no left, no right, all field, all flat. You break the tree line with your column of vehicles. All of a sudden you take fire from one direction. Then you take fire from the other. Meanwhile, the rest of the gun ambush is a skirmish line at 200 and 300 yards from the objective that simply pour everything in in an accurate form. Not just pull out, 200 and 300 yards, you're not going to just blaze away. The idea is that you're placing rounds specifically into the designated targets, and everybody's given a task. Your farthest points out are your belt-fed area guns, which like an M60 or a Browning can be held back about a half a mile. They literally have already sighted in. They've already laid the gun. Tripod typically is best for this. You will fire on the target, fire on the target, fire on the target. You will fire and engage and you'll continue with your skirmish line to engage. The skirmish line breaks contact. Everybody fires up at once, typically with the machine gun, the belt fed, firing on the back or the front of the column. Preferably one fires in the column from one end of your skirmish line, the other fires to the other end. What this does is stop forward in rear motion. Now no matter which way they turn off of the road, they're still in a kill zone. Again, this is not normally where you're very close, close, close. You are actually counting upon the weapon systems themselves and the MBRs that you're going to be using to get the job done. Notice I didn't say AR, so you can use anything you've got for this. When you break contact, the belt-fed guns continue to make contact and then the squads break contact and leave immediately and beat feet. Now, as soon as they can break, you know, they're not going to be breaking cover. They're not out in the middle of a field. They're not going to be out where they can be shot. They're not going to be out where they can be seen. Immediately when they break contact, it's off. The whole unit off like a light switch. The belt fed guns continue to sustain. Then they break. Now at about that time, even as they're trying to do this, typically the column will have already gotten their act together and will be countering what they perceive to be the primary threat. When you break contact, the third belt-fed gun is to the rear opposite direction of your line, of your skirmish line, on an oblique, but it still covers the same area of control from one, two, or three tree lines back. And the objective is to fire it up from another direction, totally changing the area of attention or the area of concern. This allows for your rear guard to break contact and leave. And one of the best tricks there, hey like you said horses work but Mr. Four Wheeler is your friend. And Mr. Four Wheeler or somebody who's got his act together can get you know go through the proper you know predetermined you know avenue of escape. You already have planned your routes of approach and your avenues of escape slash evacuation from contact. And by the time you're done, literally you're putting a quarter mile, quarter mile, half mile, one mile between you and the point of contact and you're not going to initiate a rally point in the traditional sense at close range. Everybody already knows what their task is. Exfiltration out is at the small unit level with five-man teams or even individuals exfiltrating out of the area so they do not become a large thermal target of opportunity. So then that last gun breaks contact, pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop M1 Garand, that's an optimal weapon for a gun ambush. Heavy caliber, just as much energy at maximum or intermediate ranges as most of your light rifles have at their short range. And as far as firepower goes, it's purely a matter of you developing your proficiency with regard to changing a magazine. And that's personal there. That's not the unit's responsibility, though it is the responsibility of the team leader to develop that skill. and for the squad leader and for the platoon commander and all those other people who thought they wanted to be in charge, well, their direction determines the proficiency and skill development of the unit. Well, I've got a title! That doesn't mean anything. What have you done for the unit? What have you done to inspire? How have you motivated the troops? What have you done to properly bring them up to fighting potential? Develop their expertise. That's the key, and you have to be able to motivate people to do that. The other thing about it is that again with ambushes, again gun ambushes, the advantage is that a small number of people can inflict a lot of time consumption on an enemy. Remember that the typical road control patrolling technique is to control 200 yards left and right of any route of activity. Typically, counter measure or counter ambush activity will require that the units that are doing security work sweep 200 yards left or right of the road, typically working in coordinated effort, core and left and right security groups moving to sweep the road on a regular basis or routes on a regular basis. They're kind of like a roving patrol officer. They can't be everywhere, but what their logic is, is that they're going to route out any possible close order contact to include identifying IEDs, prepared ambush points, fixed positions that have been developed, and identifying threats in the route that can be neutralized by exposing them, defoliating areas, destroying outcroppings. trying to destroy concealment points or at least identifying them for targeting later in the event somebody does have to fight and know your terrain. These are all part of the process and it's a tedious process. It was worth a load of work. Well, I'm talking about the system and how it usually functions, guys. And yes, that's the whole point. It's the very dull part about being in a uniform that people don't talk about, the very dull, dull, dull, repeat, repeat, repeat activities. The only cool thing is that the fatigue level that's tied into that is such that mistakes are typically made. Units are not excited about the idea of doing security sweep operations like this because eventually the I have anybody who is hunting, if you have an aggressor, you start hunting the hunters too. You know that security sweep operations are going to take place. You start preparing anti-personnel mines, ambush technology to go into play to decimate or destroy their motivation to be doing the sweeps. Hopefully you got a bunch of RPGs with you. That would be nice for plenty of RPGs. Well, one more thing to remember is if we can't get RPGs, Mr. Grenade is your friend. Now, how can you get it out there? Or how can you work with something similar? Rifle grenade launchers. Before we had the RPG, which is original, it's not really rocket propelled. Remember, it is a recoilless grenade. So, it's RPG2s are recoilless propelled grenades. There's no rocket, it's a slap charge. Now that's the big version of a slap charge and the advantage to that is you can put something flat and down range faster. It still has a reasonable arc of trajectory towards the target. The arc is fairly lazy. In other words, it's not extremely high, it's not like a mortar round, but it does have a bit of a of a dollop to it because it still has to compensate for the curvature of the earth and gravity sucks as they say. So there's a reason that everything is designed to try and play out as much for the energy available to play out against gravity and reach the greatest range they can with whatever you're trying to shoot down range. In the US Army at the same time when the RPG-2 was going to service, you've got to remember we went with the rifle grenade launcher. Now, the newest rifle grenade, this is where I don't want any confusion, the original rifle grenades are a slap-hot charge. They could be used in bolt-action Mausers, 1903 Springfields, M1 Garands, M1 Carbines, and M14. The M7 being the most typical launcher you could find for the longest time, Serco had them for $1.98 apiece guys for a steal. Grade 2, not pretty but serviceable. A grenade launcher that would slap right on the end of a Grand or a 1903 Springfield. Now you need a blank launching charge. A little hint there that EC blank is not your choice for launching propellant. Strangely enough black powder in grade two or grade three works quite well, but there are other options. And again, remember that the optimal charge was able to send a rifle grenade downrange out to 600 yards. Now, it would not throw the Energa that far, which was an anti-tank grenade slash anti, well basically a rifle grenade RPG guys. It's the basic warhead of the 3.5 inch rocket built with a standard aluminum tube so it could be a standard spigot tube fin stabilizer so that it could be launched from any rifle grenade launcher off an FNFL HK91. FN49, K98 Mauser, M1 Garand. They all take the same spigot dimension. Do research on this. These are still cheaper to make than an RPG would be for us in a situation today. And another thing I've always pointed out, if everybody had a rifle grenade launcher, which by the way your flash hider and your AR-15 is a rifle grenade launcher. Does everybody understand that? If you don't understand that, notice that there are two little bands cut into the base of your flash hider. One of those bands, if you're in the military as you know, will allow you to lock on a box-red type screw fixture flash hider, blank adapter, remember? Is there YouTube stuff on this, Marsh? Well, there should be at least on the idea. Most people haven't really talked about this, and it's really funny they don't understand that that was probably one of the reasons they were trying to do away with the FlashHider, because it is a Marshall device in their mind. But what you need is a spring if you take a look at the spigot type grenade launchers. Take a look at the spigot launchers. You'll notice that at the base of the launcher, closest to the muzzle, where it overlaps the muzzle. There is a notch. You'll also see another notch at the other end. Now depending on the year and what model it is, but that groove that's in the launcher, no matter where it is, is designed to hold a coil spring. Now the groove is just deep enough and goes full circle around the launcher so that you take that little coil spring, hook it together one end to the other, and it lays in that channel and it's 50% the depth of the diameter of the spring. What does this do? This creates a retaining pressure, a surface of adhesion, all those little spring coils that allows that rifle grenade to be retarded onto that launcher so it doesn't just slide on and off. Now, you'll notice on most of the, and you can find this on Google, Google US M1 Garand Grenade Launchers. There's a number of different ones there. You'll see numbers for increments. Well, those are your range numbers, guys. When I was deploying OpForForces, we were looking for an inexpensive solution. Sarco had Rifle grenade flares, World War II 1942 produced $1.98 a piece. I never had one of them that I launched that didn't work. In fact, every stinking one of them did. And at that time they were what? 40 years old? And those were grade 2. Not grade 1. Grade 2. I think we bought in the last a thousand or so they had. And then they found more so we bought them out again. But the rifle grenade flares, the advantage we have is that with what is called a medicine ball, a device you don't use and put to your shoulder, there was a way to extend the range of the rifle grenade blank. The put was another capping charge inside the base of whatever you were going to launch, rifle grenade, HE grenade, or a flare. With the medicine ball you could double the range of the launcher, but the recoil was such that you were not, not, not to fire it with the medicine ball to your shoulder. Typically you put the butt of the weapon down on the ground and use it like a mortar. Now the cool thing is that if you're using it with any tank it would be fairly flat like with the Inurga. So they recommended that if you're going to use the medicine ball, line the rifle up, put a tree behind you, put the buttstock underneath your armpit, make sure the buttstock was firmly planted on the rifle, the rifle stock was planted on the oak tree that was behind you or the tree that was behind you. And then when you pull the trigger, the tree takes the impact and the rifle stock of course absorbs the energy. I'm thinking you got a couple of five man squads out there and you're looking for food or supplies and you see a column rolling. If everybody had rifle grenade launchers and knew how to make them, consider this. If every man carried two rifle grenades and there's 120 men in a company, how many grenades could I launch simultaneously if I told everybody I wanted to saturate a target? I have no idea. It's over. Yeah, exactly. That's all she wrote, kids. And that's what they don't want people to think about. These were egalitarian weapons. This is like they always talk about or yap about the RPG. But the RPG takes a lot of special technology. Any machine shop in the country can produce a rifle grenade spigot. In fact, you can prep for what it would cost you to make an RPG-7. Probably do a couple hundred, maybe four hundred, five hundred of the rifle grenades spigots to go on a weapon. Take a look at them. Look at how simple they are. 41, 40 chromoly steel for the tube, machine to whatever respect. Outer diameter is set. Inter diameter is 30 caliber plus. It slides right over the end of the muzzle. The fixture locks into the bayonet lug if it's like for the Grand or the Carbine or the Springfield or the M14. Now with the Air 15, there's no special launcher. You use the flash hider. And if you do a rifle grenade search on YouTube, or not YouTube, go to Google or go to any search engine with images. You will see a picture of an AR-15 or an AR-10 with a, eventually if you go through all the pictures of there, with an N'Nurga rifle grenade on an AR. And there's nothing special as far as how they were put together. The only thing is you need that spring retainer and one of little tricks there. The springs that are in the little clicky clicky pens like, let's see the one I got right here, the thing that makes these go click, you can hear that. Okay, that. That little spring, to take the pen apart, that little spring in there is enough to be used as a retaining spring on your AR. So the making of the grenade itself, I mean, you don't have to go find the box. The names would have to be fabricated, but they're no more complicated than the RPG warhead is. In fact, they're less complicated depending on what you want to do. The only problem is, most people don't think about safeties. And safeties are the key to survival. Let me give you an example. Most people think I'm going to throw a grenade together and this and that and the other. Well, if you take a look at how grenades are actually put together, they're very intelligent because people know Mr. Grenade is not your friend. Mr. Grenade knows no friend. There is no such thing as friendly fire. So if you're going to build a anti-tank round or an HE round or whatever, one of the things you have to incorporate is a safety system so that while you're carrying it, it doesn't go click and then you go boom. Beyond that though, it's very straightforward. Point of impact type activators are very easily made from cartridges. In fact, that's like I said, you don't throw cartridges away that are damaged. You put the ones that are useful, still have a primer pocket. Put those off to the side if they're frag, like if they're questionable, because you're really going to build them into other cases, or eventually you're going to cut them down and make them all to spec, a certain spec dimension. Then you are going to use them as the activating channel. What you do is you put a firing pin at the impact front end of the active device. That hits the cap that's on the cartridge which activates the black powder charge or the EC blank powder charge that you have inside the cartridge itself which is held up with a piece of cardboard and wax on the inside. That squib activates your primary charge or that squib that primer for instance can activate a fuse which gives you 1000, 2000, 3000, boom! So, it impacts and still has time to think about it, maybe a few moments before it actually goes boom. On the other hand, direct activation is typically the safest. The only thing about direct contact activation is remember there's trees and junk between you and the objective sometimes. And people sometimes in a hurry don't pay attention to their environment. So the one important thing is that if you have a direct, immediate, no safety activation, no contact system, always pay attention to your front. See, one of the most common fallacies, example, everybody loves Terminator, but I always hate to spoil this. Anybody knows a 40mm grenade launcher? Guys, that 40mm grenade when it killed that polymetalloid Terminator would not explode. Why? He's too close. There is a spin safety system built into the 40 millimeter grenade launcher. It takes so many rotations for that to deactivate the safety internally. Otherwise, what you have is a big 40 millimeter bullet. Until it cycles through, OK, so many feet out, all you have is a big 40 millimeter gun round that you just fired at somebody if it's close range, which a lot of people will do if they look like they're threatening somebody shooting at them. Because most people get out of the way worrying about the 40 millimeter round even if they don't realize per se the distance they're engaging at. On the other hand, it's the reason if somebody gets shot with one of those, everybody's paranoid. Because you don't know if the fuse is quite activated or not or why it's a dud. And duds are far more dangerous than a regular active round. Because you don't know when they'll go off. They can go off now. They can go off later. They can go off because they were just sitting on the edge of eternity and there's just one little hair left of material. And it just finally goes and gives up the ghost and everything starts to run and boom. Oh. Yeah, I would think that a big box of grenades marked would be a must in any unit's inventory. I mean, you've got to be able to launch those suckers out. Well, at the very least, the guy with the best throwing arm, come on, think about it, you know, grenades aren't that heavy. The guy with the best throwing arm, it's amazing when adrenaline's up, how good he can throw. I love to watch those grenades. Well, if you're looking for food or whatever, you know, you got an enemy truck that you know is loaded with the things you want. You want to take it out. Say hello to my little friend. Well, the problem is doing more damage than you expected to. Don't forget, sometimes things boom better than you anticipated. Fuel leaks are not your friend. Remember all the other combustibles? Well, once you get something blowing up and burning, sometimes, in fact, it's the mission of most of those HE weapons to do that. The biggest advantage is in either concussive sweep, in other words, pressure on the aggressor, in either the attack or to break contact. That's where grenades really come in handy. Breaking contact is of course a must, at some point you want to do that. And so a designated grenade policy doesn't have to be a grenadier. A designated grenade policy has to be in effect with the unit. Now again, imagine even if all you had were grenades, it's not your first best choice of ways to do things all the time. But if you have a coordinated effort where every man in the formation throws a grenade and then dumps two magazines down range, that's a lot of firepower. Now you throw two grenades down range one and then a magazine and then another one and then a magazine and For about two or three minutes. You're probably king of the battlefield So I understand if you're coming across that You know, I mean you're on the field and you see a couple dishes and five and a couple supply wagons in the middle and a couple dishes in fact I mean, you know, you're gonna want to dump some shit on them. Yeah, yeah, there were it's not necessarily grenades, but whatever you've got you remember that Recoilers and spigot launched are the two most economical things to build. You could use PVC pipe for the warhead or iron pipe for the warhead. Propellants are blanks or shotgun shells. One of the best single shot rocket launchers is a single shot H&R shotgun. The H&R shotgun virtually lends itself to being an inverted version of the M79 grenade launcher. You make up your black powder shotgun shells purely as a powder charge. And it's a very straightforward process. You load the shell, you close the breech, you load onto the end of the muzzle with the proper spring fixture in place. You still need that spring retainer so that round doesn't just slide off if you have to move with it. Again, your grenadiers have to pay attention always to where that grenade, that launcher is pointed. However, then all you have to do is cock the hammer, point in the right direction and you've got a rifle grenade going down right. Now if you make it out of, for instance, a Schedule 80 PVC pipe, and use a spade, not a reducer, but an expander. You can go up to three or four inches, then you do about five, six, seven inches of PVC standard or schedule 80. And before I would put that together, I would score, I would take whatever I had, but I could use a Dremel tool, I could use a cutting wheel, and I could score the inside of the tube. Most people see these grenades and see that they have that, like the pineapple grenade has the serrations on the outside. Think about it, when you cut diamonds and such, or when you cut certain things, if you score in advance before you throw the energy at the object and you score towards the strike, think about the score being on the inside of the metal or the plastic. And when the explosion inside the chamber takes place, it slaps and separates following the path of least resistance you've created with the serrations on the inside. With iron, pipe, or steel, that will create a more uniform fragmentation. OK? If you are using plastic, then you can go with shot glued to the outside. There are a couple of different tricks there. Bolts, nuts, steel nails, whatever. Your charge is on the inside. The cap has the fuse in it. You can use a 3 quarter inch probably schedule 80 gray PVC. use a schedule 80 expander from 3 quarter inch up to whatever you want for the bore size of your charge. You make another piece of PVC, whatever schedule you want, that can be 4 or 5 inches long. Your warhead cap can be an end cap piece, ideally one that's round would be cool, but it doesn't have to be. And if you want a nose cone, just take another reducer going from the 4 inch or 5 inch or whatever you did, back down to the smallest size you can, That channel is going to afford you your contact point for your striker rod which is going to be out in front of your charge. Inside you set up and establish your capping system with the rod that comes out the front end is the firing pin for your primary, you know, for your cartridge which of course activates the squib charge which activates the primary charge inside the grenade, inside the device and go boom! You won't hear the tap, you won't hear the tap tap, you're just going to hear the kaboom when it makes contact. Now it's an HE round. Now if you want to go shape charge, you can make shape charges at home, you can make shape charges that will work quite well, and one of the best shape charge solutions for making a reverse shape charge inside that little warhead nose comb we just talked about are funnels from the dollar store. You get the dollar store funnel sets. They're so useful for so many things. You create a reverse squib charge that's at the top of the funnel. The funnel actually, the wide end goes towards the impact point. The narrow end is inside, behind where the charge is. that 4 or 5 inch, 3 inch funnel. It won't be as scientific as the grossly over and well engineered modern shape charges are, but it will probably penetrate anywhere from 6 to 7 inches of steel. A stupid, simple funnel in about a 3, 4 inch diameter would probably be best. So it's going to be a 4 inch internal diameter PVC pipe. and that shape charge, what you're going to do is direct the energy that you're going to create inside that blast chamber. It's going to be slapped and focused into a very narrow jet that is going to cut like an arc welder, actually like a blowtorch, through whatever it makes contact with. Half inch steel, 1 inch steel shouldn't have any problem at all going through that. Now when I say up to 6 inches, that's an optimal strike. You're going to be facing armor that is designed either to, again, face off against ceramic. It'll be a ceramic stand-off material, so it's designed to absorb a certain amount of the energy. It can be an homogeneous armor plate. It can be a number of different things, because there's everything out there. Some of it burns real good. Some of it takes a little more energy to get through. But if it's not too thick, pretty much anything you can improvise will get to the soft, chewy people on the inside. This is all stuff we can do off the shelf. 15 minutes, there's no reason. 20 minutes worth of shopping between everybody. Anything and everything on the shelf, if you can't find it one way, you can the other. Always remember that. But as far as making, everybody's thinking about making rockets and making, even RPGs, that's the next step. That's next generation out. Spigot launching devices are the most economical. Here's another thing. Look up British spring-loaded spigot launchers in World War II. Do you know they made up to a 240 millimeter warhead spigot launcher that was a duck foot for coastal defense that could launch a projectile thousands of feet? Wow, wouldn't even hear that one coming. And by the way, they also made the PIOT. Look up the PIOT. The PIOT has no explosive charge to send it downrange. The PIOT is a spring-loaded anti-tank weapon. And you heard me right, spring-loaded anti-tank weapon. You spend all your time and research on the warhead, not on the launcher. But how does that work? Why don't you check it out? I will give you a little hint about something I know from talking to the can head operators. Canadian troops, I can't call those guys can heads, those are real Canadians. But I know a lot of guys, World War II vets, we talked to a lot of them because these guys also, when we got the Bren gun carriers, they were always talking to us. Anyway, one of the things about the PIAC gun and a lot of the anti-take weapons from World War II, when you fire guys, there's a little thing they don't tell you about. You fire and then you roll left or right three or four feet. Why would you do that? Well, they taught us something that when you do a good job of firing on that tank and that rod, that anti-tank device does what it's supposed to do. Well, the arc of and trajectory for the rod and the fin stabilizer that go out to where the tank is, when they hit, that's not what goes into the tank. However, what's really bizarre is that rod or projector or whatever went down range comes right back down almost the exact same trajectory line to where it came from. You mean to say that the round that you sent out there and killed that tank with, part of it could come back and kill you? Oh yeah, stick in your forehead. Just like dead, dead, dead. So a little case in point, when you fire anything, fire and move. Just roll left or right by 5-6 feet or a skedaddle left or right right away. It would be a good idea to move anyway because if you fire on something like a tank or an APC, if you hit it but you don't kill it, you just pissed off a lot of people, it would probably be a good idea to be in motion and moving right away. How's that sound? So a good policy is to not really be there when the storm, you know, in the feces hits the oscillating device just in case. On the other hand, while you're moving you might hear that boom, boom, boom. as the fuel erupts or the vehicle starts to burn better and the guys are dancing out the back on fire and you're feeling really good because you got a good positive hit and your assistant loader, he's smiling, he's kicking butt while you're busy running to your next shooting position which you already had planned. See how that works. But with the Piot gun, the Piot, one of the things that the guy said is, oh yes, that rod came back every time to where we shot it from. If we hit it, it comes back. So you definitely roll left to right. But remember, the PIOT did not have any kind of SLAP explosive charge. It ran off springs. So don't say it can't be done. They just don't want you to think about it. Because what happens if you start not thinking in explosive terms for most of your work That's a whole lot of explosives you don't need to build now, and you can focus all your explosives and all your demolition on the warheads, which means you can have your costs, which means you can make lots more, because you have more boom-boom to go around. That means more troops can have more goodies. See how that works? So do a little research. The rifle grenade launching cartridges are very specifically engineered. Don't confuse those with a training blank. A training blank and a rifle grenade blank are two different birds. They're also marked differently for that reason. Anyway, we are at the top of the hour. We're going to take a break here. We should be hearing the music in a moment. For everybody out there, well, the porter's wide open. Obviously, things have quieted down and homie, you know, the look, you know, thugalicious has been, well, kind of I need for being a little on the mean side. What a surprise. And as we said before, that was deflection for the sake of trying desperately to keep everybody's mind away from the border, which nobody's going back to. Have you noticed that in the control media? Oh, anything but talk about the wide open border. Oh, we're going to have IS, Israeli, Israeli attacking us. Really? Well, why should I care about that? The border's wide open. The government doesn't care about it. They're trying to get us killed. So laugh and anybody goes, did you hear? Oh yes I hear this is good to attack. Really? The Israelis are gonna attack? The Israelis are gonna come up through the border? Because they are. They're making a point, leaving the border wide open. You all know why. They want to try and get us killed. We're on a break. God bless Republic. Death is a new world order. 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