Live 365 In this, the land of the free and home of the brave. The freedoms we secured for you, we hoped you could always keep. But tyrants labored endlessly while your parents were asleep. Your freedom's gone, your courage lost, you're no more than a slave. In this, the land of the free and home of the brave. You buy permits to travel and permits to own a gun. Permits to start a business or to build a place for one. On land that you believe you own, you pay a yearly rent. Although you have no voice in saying how the money is spent, your children must attend a school that doesn't educate, and your Christian values can't be taught according to the state. You read about the current news in a regulated press, and you pay a tax you do not owe to please the IRS. Your money is no longer made of silver nor of gold. You trade your wealth for paper, so your life can be controlled. You pay for crimes that make our nation turn from God and shame. You've taken Satan's number, and you've traded in your name. You've given government control to those who do you harm, so they could burn down churches and seize the family farm. and keep our country deep in debt. Put men of God in jail. Harash your fellow countrymen while corrupted courts prevail. Your public servants don't uphold the solemn oaths they've sworn. And your daughters visit doctors so their children will be born. Your leaders send artillery and guns to foreign shores and send your sons to slaughter fighting other people's wars. Can you regain the freedoms for which we fought and died? Or don't you have the courage or the faith to stand with pride? And are there no more values for what you will fight to save? Or do you wish your children to live in fear and be a slave? Oh, sons of the Republic, arise. Take a stand. Defend the Constitution, the Supreme Law of the land. Preserve our great Republic and each God given right. And pray to God to keep the torch of freedom burning bright. As Iooke vanished in the mist for whence he came. His words were true, we are not free, but we have ourselves to blame. For even now as tyrants trample each god given right, we only watch him tremble, too afraid to stand and fight. If he stood by your bedside in a dream while you were asleep and wondered what remains of the freedoms he fought to keep, what would be your answer if he called out from the grave, is to still the land of the free? and good afternoon ladies and gentlemen this is the first hour of the afternoon intelligence report i'm a quirky one day closer to victory for all of our brothers and sisters both on and behind the lines and occupied territories west southwest and uh... well ladies and gentlemen you were listening to us on liberty free radio dot four m g dot com indian freedom talk radio dot com running with a micro stations cv base stations alternate technologies east and west of the mississippi along with alaska or the hallmark network from uh... top of main to the bottom of florida from the bottom of florida cross the arc of the gulf of mexico headed louisiana mississippi texas Oklahoma, big chunk of Nebraska, a whole bunch of Wyoming to include both the third, the fifth, and our friends in the great recall state of Colorado, waving also to our friends on the left side of Wyoming, the 12 sisters. And by the way, we've got our first of our field reports. on the deal extreme micro fms. So far nothing offline, no floating, no overheating. One system is a little boxed in even, expected it to be probably having some issues with the summer. And just the reverse, it seems to be maintaining temp, properly cooling, the whole nine yards. So just a heads up there. Thanks to the guys for the follow up report. I still haven't gone through the other 20 pages or so of information, including there's time tables for spot checks on temp, frequency set, all the... We're also using frequency counters off of the transmit site so that we can monitor to see if we've got any strange things going on with harmonic frequencies off of the transmitter, something we're always concerned with because we don't need to be bouncing up and down the dial simultaneously. The big boys and the big FM's do that intentionally sometimes when they're trying to screw their competition. We don't do that. We're more disciplined than the Shysters that operate on the other end. Anyway, the great state of Jefferson out there on the left coast passed the Rockies along with the rest of the Pacific coast. Once a good afternoon, turn back to the east, we sweep across the plains, leap over the burgeoning banks of the Mississippi, and land in the Smokies slash the Blue Ridge with the restaurant crews, grandma teams, okay teams, And the Ma Bell Grammar Consortium brings us the Golden Spike. Many hands make for light work. A million petticoat junction operators. The ability to continue to function when everything else is offline. Well, it has been a beautiful day today. Blue skies, little windy, wanting to rain on us, but not really. It's kind of funny. We're getting that kind of mixed cloud cover, a little bit of breeze. Real comfortable to work outside. Plenty of stuff to do, of course. in preparation for the winter that is coming. Dun-dun-dun! Did I say that? The winter that's coming! No! But if all this rain actually were, well, in the winter again, you'd burn up your eyeballs, wouldn't you? Yes, you would. Well, it is the 20th of August. It is the sixth year of open Fabian, the socialist, and Soviet socialist occupation of America with a gay 2014 Old Earth calendar, or Mayan, Cretin-Z-Town. Crazy town, calendar and Nostradamus cop out! Nostradamus told us we're doomed! Another excuse for you to sit in your hands and do nothing. Because notress don't Notre Dame! Anyway, we don't have to keep as busy as it is. Right now, interestingly enough, wow, this is rather interesting. This is interesting. Well, I'll bring this up in a minute. Today is Weapons Wednesday, by the way, but I was looking at something that was sent to me as a flag. on some sales that are going on around the country. RoyalTigerimports.com I don't know what kind of response I got on those SKS's but it looks like it's pretty good because they are running down the inventory and have knocked out a few items but off the inventory. But it's overall looks like there are some SKS's still available. The Chinese ones probably came in from Vietnam or they could have come in from South Africa. They could have come in from a number of places. But they're not Chinese direct imports. These are China gift rifles or Chinese, again, commerce rifles that went to other countries, kind of like when they were selling the brand-new SKS to us here. Back in the day, they probably went to whoever has fairly new weapons, and they've seen some mileage. Probably if they were Vietnam, they're the ones you Vietnam vets were being shot at with years ago. Then that shouldn't be a surprise. That's just well, well eventually we're gonna see some of these right and well now we are Again, so there were there have been some other used Chinese sks out there in the past one batch came in from Indonesia here It's been 1015 what oh 12 years ago. Oh, they're stamped as such if you look on the barrels guys There's whoever did the work did really fine work as they micro stamp the barrels and they didn't squish squash or really super hyper distort anything but we can see because the ones we had have I should say that our allies have are pretty good shooters are the older first model SKS Chinese and all machine parts and their tack drivers are ugly on the outside shiny and bright on the inside typical for the chrome finish on everything brushed or high polish doesn't make any difference and these weapons, of course, that are available through Tiger, Royal Tiger imports. So far, I haven't seen anybody complaining about anything coming through the system, so I'm not really going to say, hmm, I'm not sure about it. They're used, number one. I personally would take the ones that are not working. That's me. I'd pay $200 for the one that's not working. Everybody goes, why would you do that? Well, because I know the nuances of the SKS. Typically, the problem is, they even told you in the article about these guns, they've been sitting in a place for 20 years. Now, what do you think happens to worn pieces of metal when they're sitting someplace, even if it's inside, even if they got some grease on them, after they've been sitting for 20 years? What happens? Well, the places where the weapons are brazed, parts internally, They sit long enough, there's something that wasn't greased right, or it's got an air space, or it's even, you never greased. And guess what? That's where it locks up. Now the operators who test these weapons and rate them, they're not supposed to beat on them with any tools. They're not going to take a two by four and do anything like that. If it doesn't work, they're rating it as a non-working weapon, and they eat all this. It is minimize time to inspection, maximize turnaround. Understand what they're doing. Maybe they can buy more. If they have money, they can buy more. So the idea is that they're going to take the time, slow down a bit, and again, assess the situation and act accordingly. That's what they do. So that is something that they're definitely worthwhile. If you've got an SKS inventory, and a lot of you guys do, as we know, This would be a way to enhance your SKS inventory. Hey, spend a few more dollars, you get a different greater rifle, it's up to you. Personal choice there, guys, personal choice. I'm just recommending that there are things that can be done. The ones with the cracked or broken stocks, two things that I would do. Number one, right off the bat, I would go buy another stock. Great excuse to buy another cheap, the cheapest SKS stock on the market that is a solid fixed stock. That's the first thing I do. Then I take the old stock off and I clean the whole stinking rifle up because since I got it out of the stock, which I needed to do anyway, now I have an opportunity to go over the rest of the weapon as I should and find out where all the rest of the oxidation is. Or at least something that looks like it might want to oxidize. Now while I'm doing that and I'm cleaning up the metal parts and the receiver and the action in the flexible magazine well in the trigger group, I'm going to take that stock and first I'm going to clean it up, brush it off, take it to the dollar store. This is where you get your basic maintenance tools for coarse armory maintenance. Go into the kitchen brush section and they've got little hand brushes, scrubber brushes, doodly brushes, get into corner brushes and get a pack of toothbrushes. The most number of coarse bristle hard toothbrushes that you can get from them. Mark, those are cheap Chinese toothbrushes and they're like using like number, you know, like four course, you know, sandpaper on your face. Yeah, well I want that for my weapons, you know, maintenance because what I'm going to do is I'm going to get down to those cracks, I'm going to scrub out the dirt and the crud. Then I'm going to look at how the stock crack took place, which typically is a lateral crack usually up around where the shock bar is, where it crosses the stock on the inside. You ever notice that? Anyway, I'm probably going to even pull that bolt out. It does disconnect, but you have to have a couple of, you have to have what's called a bi-pin set with many of them, or it has a screw if you're lucky. It has a standard flat blade, fantastic. Either way, you're going to back that out, and you're going to clean that off. And you know, to be quite honest, before I put that on, I'm either going to go have that thing re-blued, or I'm going to paint it flat black, or I'm going to paint, maybe paint it camouflage. I'm probably going to do that with this stock when I'm done with it too. But anyway, I'm going to clean up the channel at the metal setting because there's a little plex of rust in there. Oh, you forgot about that. Yeah, inside that cross bolt when you pull it out, you're going to find that, well, wood attracts moisture no matter how hard you try, even though they linseed oil it or they seal it with whatever gum or whatever types of paraffin or whatever types of lacquer. One way or another, wherever the wood is, it's been out in the weather, moisture collects, time waits for no one. So I'm going to clean all those little flecks of rust out of the little wood channel area on the stock. I'm going to look at the stock and decide if I want to just Gorilla Glue it, which by the way works really well. There's a number of other adhesives. Somebody's going to tell you, no Mark, there's far better than that. Fantastic. Whatever adhesive you feel will work best that's all weather that is not going to break down and is going to lock on like an alligator. you run with that adhesive. That's not a problem for me. Now if you have a little trick here, if you have an internal stock problem, one of the old armourer's tricks is, if you have fiberglass, which is kinda cool, you can rub down inside the stock there a little bit. And remember you don't want to add any more to the stock and help. And if the finest, thinnest layer of fiberglass, you lay down an adhesive bed, and lay that on the inside just enough to cover both sides of the brake and then goop it up again, paint it some more with whatever adhesive or whatever sealer you want to use that will work with the fiberglass and then you rub it, once you let it dry completely after you've pinned it and or you've glued it and you've stuck it together and you know it's bonding and it's locking into place Then you're gonna clean that up on the inside and dress it now I'm gonna paint this stock probably anyway So a couple other things that I can do I'm going to take some damp rags after I've washed the stock by the way I didn't mention the I'm gonna wash the stock I've cleaned the stock up and I've washed it off soap and water. Okay? So open water doesn't hurt that stock you've taken the metal parts off, right? Now one of the other things you've done is you're opening up those cells that are on the wood stock and you're gonna see that a lot of those bumpily things that have shown up that are from all the from the you know, the the ages past of infantry carrying those things and dropping them in the deuce and a half dropping them on the ground dropping them in a trench drop bouncing them into a wooden branch at night at 3 in the morning that kind of thing. I didn't see that. Oh, it's hard to a bump. I'm getting my job. What I'm getting Yeah, okay. Well, I'll shut up Anyway, now you're gonna pull the bumps back out as best you can you're gonna clean it off Make sure you dry everything off. Let it sit now. Okay, and give it a good brushing again Yeah, get break out that deck brush not one of the dirty ones a clean one for this purpose to do a quick rough up on the stock Take your choice of camouflage pattern that you feel would be best suited for your rifle and for that buttstock that whole stock assembly and go to town Now make sure that you're careful with that area. I would even paint inside the wood channel where the bolt, the cross bolt is going to sit, but be very careful, very delicate, very light. Just a little spray, in a little spray, in a little spray. I don't want to gob it up. I don't need goopies on that. I need it so I can get that cross bolt back in there, put the stock back in place, you know, the stock parts back in place and you torque them back down. Now I've painted that other part already. We're going to primer paint it. At least black primer would be best. but you can go with brown or whatever color you like for a primer base. And then I'd paint it again with whatever your base color is that you're going to paint the whole stock with in step one. There you go. All matching colors. Stock is now refabricated. It's happy. It's a reinforced stock. And it's probably never going to be a problem for whoever uses that rifle again for as long as that rifle endures. But you still have the plastic stock that you bought because you want to put the rifle in the service yard and do the maintenance on that. But let's go another step. The rifle's got pits. Oh my God, it's gold pits like armpits. No, it doesn't stink, but it does have little rust spots here and there. Well let's do this. We're going to get that Zytel stock back for the moment. We're going to clean every part off, determine where we have parts that we don't want to paint. We're going to strip everything. We're going to pull all the oils off everything. We're going to go to town with those plastic brushes and by the time we're done, she's shining where she needs to and the oxidation and rust has been pulled wherever we can. If necessary, break out the number four steel wool and get in there and work on those oxidation spots that are really light pitted. Typically we will find pitting on these grade two rifles and grade three rifles, for that matter all of these rifles probably have a little bit of something somewhere. Where the rifle rests on the ground or where it rests when gravity of course, if there's moisture in the air, gravity follows, you know, the water, you know, pulls the water, it follows the path of least resistance and it sits and then either, well, either evaporates or it drips off the rifle, doesn't it? You'll notice where all these rifles are oxidized in the same place. Now fortunately, they're really, really thick steel because they were grossly over engineered. So a little bit of oxidation doesn't kill the weapon, but doesn't help it either. So we're going to try to arrest that. And the best way to arrest that is either A, have the thing completely refinished with the industrial finish, park rising, whatever you want to do, or bluing, which is a lot of work. And this is a combat rifle. Plus it's a clunky, chunky Chinese tool. It's a Chinese toolbox. So I would go paint. I would do what the British did for decades and decades and decades and decades and the British number four Mark 1 Enfields have 10, 12, 20 coats of paint on them. It doesn't affect the action at all. And the old paint stays right where it is protecting the metal from any oxygen while the new paint seals up the areas where the thing bounced around and maybe has some chippies and stuff. So I'm going to paint the action the same base color. and it's all going to be the same color from front to back. I will of course plug up the parts that don't need to be painted because I don't need paint in my gas system on the outside, on the inside. I don't need paint in the barrel. I don't need paint on the bolt. I don't need, you know, see there's a whole bunch of parts you're going to make sure you kind of cover up and, you know, rag and cotton works. There's a number of techniques. Too numerous to mention. Go to YouTube, watch a few videos on how you dress up a gun for painting and go to town! And what colors? Well, if you're in a dark green or like a brown or a dark green forest area, maybe you want to do that green forest cad pack kind of color range. Or the Flecktarn color range. Or US woodland color range to match it. In fact, maybe even a woodland pattern to match your gear. On the other hand, you may want to go with the smoky browns and the tans and the grays because you're down on the border or up in the mountains. Maybe you're in places where there's more maple and oak forest where you got lots of that gray-green bark. And during the winter, it's pretty obvious when those leaves are gone, they're not green. And you got other shades you want to add to it. So it's a personal choice thing. But whatever you do, your base color, your foundation color, will be pretty consistent across the whole of the weapon. Then after you've put everything in place and you've got an idea what you want to do and map out, camouflage up your receiver group, camouflage up that wood stock, make sure that you've cleaned up that butt cap and your retainer for the cleaning kit and the base of the SKS where it goes in the butt stock there. That's a maintenance issue that's right along with the rest of your metal parts. So it's a given, you should have been doing cleanup on that and you're going to be painting it progressively. Now, the butt stock cap other than the working parts, so be very careful with that. Make sure that you clean everything up, get rid of all the oxidation, we have that little pop in cap that pushes inward, that there's a spring in there to keep the cleaning kit in place inside the buttstock. Make sure that's cleaned up and oiled lightly or greased lightly. Grease is cool. Take a Q-tip and grease the whole spring. Go right around the whole spiral. It's tedious. Sit down and watch TV. Pick your nose while listening to some music and dip your little Q-tip in some grease. Higher grade is better. Best grade that you can possibly spend some money on some high-end grease that's going to stick and stay for years. Do a little research there. Figure out what you love more than I do and use it. OK? But take the Q-tip and grease that whole spring. Don't assume that you kind of got it. Because only you sprayed it because it was fast. Really? Well, when you put this all back together, you probably won't think about that spring for a long time. And you probably aren't going to take the buttstock apart because it should hold together with all the work you've done. So we're going to clean up that spring. We're going to make sure that spring is properly lubricated. Before we install it, we're going to make sure we've painted the butt cap and that means on the inside and the outside. Okay, that'll make sure that it's secure. Okay, we have color. Who do we have? Color jump in there. This is trophy. My suggestion for Greece would be something pretty readily available, but There is pretty much nothing better for the purpose than C.V. joint grease, especially lithium or moly C.V. joint grease. Will last forever just about, yeah. And it handles the moisture, the weather, and the beating. Think about what you exactly well the reason I say flavor choices because some people will spend money and go into the industrial you know lubricant family and you're talking tens of dollars for a small container, but it does work You know so that would be a solution and by the way should be your armors kit anyway Because it's easy to store, it can be used on pretty much anything where you've got a working part. But remember, we don't goop it on. I know you know this, but just for all of our listeners, some are new. We don't goop it on. We just take that Q-tip again, and we apply this to the surface area and get it in where the working contact surfaces are. Then when we put that whole thing away, now it's lubricated for a good long time. And I won't have to worry about it not working. And I won't have to worry about it also rusting in place. Appreciate the input of that. Go ahead. That was all. Thank you, Mark. Thank you, sir. Thank you. When reassembling, the other thing is we're all obviously we're going to be checking to make sure we've reassembled all components and parts properly, and so check the manual. Or in other words, your assembly videos and whatever you've got there because, well, if you have spare parts when you're putting a gun back together, something's wrong. And pretty much anything a government put on a military weapon It's supposed to be there. It doesn't mean that there aren't a few things you can live without. We've talked about that before, but pretty well make sure that everything is properly squared away. There's a number of duracote and durapaints out there that will just run forever on a weapon. And that's fine if you want to spend that kind of money. But I would point out that the British government didn't spend that kind of money. They didn't really use a duracote paint. They used something that was a very high-grade enamel. And by the way, they had a little bit of lead in it too. Just a little bit. The old age of lead paints. And so that's probably why when it was baked down, the stuff really settled and latched right onto the other layer of paint, onto the cell structure of the paint below the crystalline structure. Anyway, that's what I do with the SKOs. I wouldn't worry about her making her pretty. I'm not trying to make her look like a Vietnam weapon. I'm trying to keep it from becoming an archaeological dig object. Hey Mark. Go ahead, caller. Hey, it's BC. Just down here in the shop monitoring your show. Sounds great. Doing a war. You are, not me. Excellent. That nature of hard work. But the X I am. Again, that's XIM Primer and the other cover state. For those of you looking for a base color, these are materials that to a degree the British armorers probably were using. They had to have some kind of base that was pretty impressive. Their paint was better quality, I think in general anyway, because the EPA didn't exist back then. Whatever they chose to use and produce out of the factory, pretty much it did its job. It takes a hell lot of work to get those layers of paint off those end fields and there's a couple other, well, FN 49s are another notorious one. If you've had an FN 49 that's been in service for say 30-40 years and a lot of them have been 40 since post-World War II, The FN49s typically were painted. They were not blue, they were not parkurized. Now there were some that were for South American contracts or apparently may have been re-parkurized in South America. But typically they were a flat matte black paint just like the British Enfield. Since the Belgians embraced British armament there after World War II, along with the US, because that's what was cheap and available, they pretty well adopted a lot of the armorer practices for quite a number of years until they got their own armaments industry back on its own legs. This is notorious with regard to operations Well, with finish, fit, et cetera. Paint was cheap, and it was post-World War II poverty time. Another thing's taken into consideration. The other thing is, again, what we're just trying to do is protect that metal guys from not rusting. You could even do this with aluminum. We don't really think about it. And the other issue is, I will point out with aluminum, unique from steel. Steel expands and contracts with heat. That happens. That's going to happen no matter what. Aluminum expands and contracts far more radically, especially if it's a stretched or an extended surface, and it's a thin wall. Aluminum siding is notorious for that. This is why paints that are out there, as I've pointed out, what's really cool about using house paints for armored vehicle painting, for doing quick paint jobs on tactical vehicles, you've got to remember that the average house paint out there has to be able to cover cedar siding. Asbestos siding, vinyl siding, which by the way is also pretty persnickety because of its lack of cooperation with regard to holding onto whatever gets painted on it. I don't care what they say, I have a 20 year guarantee. Some pieces of plastic just don't like you. They don't like the paint you try to apply. However, aluminium is on the list. And, alliuminium, well in order for that, that's why latex paint works so well with this, is because latex paint will stretch as the alliuminium during the summer expands, you know, with the heat. and then contracts accordingly as the temperatures change, that it's quite an extensive or a wider range of stretch or expansion and contraction than pretty much all the other materials I mentioned. Organic, such as wood, not so much. I mean, very little if at all, although it has to breathe, or at least again, if we can keep it sealed so they can breathe from below, but is protected from moisture, H2O from above, then it makes all the difference in the world. But for vehicles, for steel, To do a tactical paint job on a bunch of vehicles, let's say you picked up a bunch of beaters like we've talked about here on the air for weapons systems. Your best bet, go to your local paint store, whatever ultra-flat paint they have on sale. That's a house paint. Best price, 20 year, it only has a 20 year guarantee. Okay, that's fine by me. and gee it's under twenty dollars a gallon hey that's fine by me hey I'm gonna stretch it because after I get my primer base color on whatever the color is going to be OD green or loam green or you know whichever shade range I'm using depending on where you are in the country it could be earth brown it could be a coyote brown once that's been shot remember I'm gonna water that down a little bit to use it in the gun although I did I did not do that with the first test batch we did on a van. In fact, the van is in one of the videos we have on YouTube. And I did an Italian waterfront camouflage pattern on it. And what was interesting is, again, I did not thin the paint. I actually went the other way. I left it pretty well specked and let it go heavy. And again, the base coat flawless. I mean, considering I intentionally used a rusted junker. Went around with a plenum sheet metal from throwaway sheet metal. Riveted and screwed the metal into place after we cut off the big chunks of rust and sculpted it accordingly. Scuffed up the metal a little bit. Taped up all the things we didn't want painted such as the glass. Broke out the house paint gun and went to town kids. And amazingly enough, it worked just fine. So again, bigger vehicles, tanks, armored vehicles, or homemade armored vehicles that you build, if you're looking for a paint solution, you can go with a more expensive base color. Consider this. You can go with a more expensive paint, a traditional automotive type paint. And then go with an overcoat with the house paint. And then do the rest of your camouflage pattern accordingly. Hey, wait a minute. That would be like, well, pretty well. It's not likely you're going to have to do a whole lot of work on that metal anymore after you've cleaned it up. I would point out with a lot of armored vehicles, only where there's oxidation would I really be beaten on the paint. I have long experience with this. Remember that the older the vehicle, the more lead-based paint it has on it. And if it's locked down there and staying there, why do you want to move it? Oh, yeah. In other words, if it's tough to get off, it's staying there. And nothing's rusting underneath that metal. where you have chipping and flaking, that's what you want to clean up. You've got typically rehab that is where you have moisture buildup. And eventually something has a crack or an expansion point in it, the water gets in there, the water thaws, freezes, thaws, thaws, freezes, freezes, thaws, and eventually like, you know, wood in a tree, stone in a mountain, eventually it breaks in there and it gets to the metal and that's where you get that blossoming because there's now some moisture available to affect that steel that's underneath. Now it takes a lot of time with armor, and typically armor doesn't get polyped like your weapons metal does guys. Face hardened steel is a little different situation, but you still don't need rust. So clean that up, clear that up, make sure that you give everything a quick dusting so that you blend everything where you've painted it. your base colors are and then go to town with your camouflage pattern again or whatever your overcoat color is going to be with your vehicles especially, you know, like, well I'll give you an example, we had a lot of experience with Bren gun carriers, man they put five coats of paint on that thing from the get go and having to do any work or thinking we're just going to strip it down to the original paint, it's like after a while I was like, no I don't think so, that paint's on there for good, hell that paint's been on there since World War II and I'm fighting it to get it off, no way, it ain't going to happen no more. That stays right where it is because it's doing its job. Now let's get the rust off where there's any surface rust or something where there was a lot of wear marks and there's little surface rust there from sitting. Now I will say this, if you're using a vehicle that's an armored vehicle, you have places where they've been rubbed and worn by troops moving in and out, that's a good indication when you start using it, the same thing's going to happen again. Oh, yeah, typically there's a pattern to wear and tear. So the cool thing is when you get it all cleaned up and you get that surface rust brushed away and then you repaint it, every once in a while you're going to want to be prepped to repaint again because that wear point is a given point where obviously human contact has repeat, repeat, repeat broken down something. Well, beef it up a little bit. And then remember that every once in a while, rather than waiting until it starts to oxidize or do something like that again, cover it up with some more paint. Basic rules. There's also you can bumper stuff too if you've got an area where, which the military's even did, but chances are the bumpers or the Kevlar is gone. But on newer vehicles Kevlar blanketing and also rubber baby buggy bumpers were put in place so that you bounce over that instead of thud into the metal because metal doesn't give You know what I mean? It's one of those things you need to remember about armor. Armor, if a light rifle round will bounce off, I don't think you're going to have a whole lot of effect on it. It's going to have more effect on you. Oh, that didn't help my knee. Yeah, see how that is? So just want to think ahead. Prior to proper planning prevents piss poor performance. The B principle applied. Another thing about the weapon. Let's go back to the SKS and finish up on it. We've got it all painted, we've got it all happy. We're putting it back together. It's now settled and nested. It's dried. We didn't get excited. Oh, oh, oh! I painted it! I need to put it together right away! Oh yeah! No, let it sit. Let it cure. Be patient. It's a weapon that will serve somebody for a good long time if it's properly maintained. But first, properly, if proper maintenance has been done to it. And that's what your job is. So be patient. Now while it's sitting there, if you want to, you can inspect to see if there's anything you might have missed. In your excitement to put things back together, maybe there's a spot that you realize, oh, that probably should have been touched differently there. And don't go crazy with that too, because people have a tendency to start fixing something, and then they go beyond fixing and kind of, well, it heads the other way. So don't go crazy either. Again, be patient. Everything with gunsmithing is patience. While that project is settling in and curing, go to the next one. You got a whole bunch of those SKS's, make a little production line up. It's not a problem. A lot of guys have been buying piles of these things. I understand doing that. It's cool. You're going to make a whole pile of SKS 510 rifles. Well, if you do, make up a little production line. Now, I don't know what they have left, and I've punched this into the chat room already, but let's go see what they have, if anything. People have been really cleaning them out. AIM surplus has SKS parts. Huh? Yeah, I've mentioned this but I haven't brought it up for the last, you know, six months or more. AIM surplus has SKS parts. Now what they have left, I don't know, but if you go to accessories, let's go to AIMsurplus.com. Now they've reformatted their page, the way they've got it set up again, they've purified it and changed it so you'll get excited and you got to search through the product because it's like jumbling the store around. You got to go look for things again and find what you want. I'm looking for that goody, it's over there. Okay, well now we're going to go to the new AIM page, AIMsurplus.com. webmaster re-engineered it. Over on the side it says specials. Oh, wait a minute. Specials, 545 by 39 AR-15 parts. We'll go back to that in a minute. Accessories. Now, when I go to accessories, there's AK accessories. But if I go down the scroll, in fact, if I go down the scroll, let's see, I'm in accessories. I'm going to go down the scroll. Look at that, SKS accessories and parts. SKS replacement parts. Well they have something. Let's find out what they have. Well they haven't been sold out and they only have small, oh yeah you guys have been grabbing them. They only got small parts left but not all of them are too small. SKS firing pins. They have them available for $4.95 a piece. SKS recoil springs. $3.95, darn good price for that by the way. SKS Magazine Follower, you don't wear those out very often but if you got one missing because somebody was fiddle farting with a rifle and really mucked up, $1.50 apiece you can't go wrong. SKS Follower Spring, definitely something that's kind of handy to have because again it could be boosted, $1.50 apiece. SKS Hinge Pin, $1.25. The trap door for the S-CAS, they've already sold... wait, they had those for it. Oh wow. $1.25 a piece, that was a good price, no wonder they're sold out. S-CAS latch spring and the sear spring. $3.95. Piston extension, okay. For S-CAS in the Albanian model. Now I'd have to cross check that. If it's close, then it will probably work just fine with the other weapons, but you'll have to lay it against your spec piston to confirm length. That's really where the issue is. SKS sear, SKS disconnect, SKS Albanian butt plate. Now why is the SKS different for the Albanian? Oh, well because it has two holes in the buttstock. What's more space in there for storage? Yeah, they got two holes instead of one. SKS buttstock spring. Hey, by the time you're done you could actually maybe make your SKS fit that double hole SKS butt plate and then you could put all of it together and make your rifle double useful. SKS nut for stock cross bolt. Remember that cross bolt pin I was telling you about with a double pin screwdriver system? There's one right there, $2.95. If yours is rusted and dusted and crusted, why put the old one away? Well, don't throw it away, but why put it back on when you can buy a brand new one for $2.95 and go, there, you'll be happy for another hundred years. SKS rear sight assembly 995, it's the whole slide assembly guys. Some people have lost theirs, others were missing from the weapons when they came in. Like they said, some parts may be missing. SKS rear sight spring and SKS takedown latch. Now that's kind of handy because sometimes those are buggered up. And this is the takedown latch for $3.95 for pulling the dust cover. Unissued surplus. Oh yeah, yeah, I'd have to have that in my armors kit. That would go to the armors kit. That's one of those things that when you bust it, you can improvise, adapt, and overcome for a bit. But wouldn't it be nice to actually have the right part? Yeah, if you've got a whole pile of S-Casses, you want at least one or two of those in the kit. And that may not be enough in the long run, but at least it gives you a model, especially of a brand new one, to use for a pattern when you build more. Here, take this over to Fred. Fred is the machinist. He's got the CNC shop. Tell him I need one of these. And I'd like to have a lot more and sell them. And to ask him how much he can make these for. Oh, OK. I'll do that. 41.40 chromoly steel is fine. Or 41.30, I don't care. How do you like that? Anyway, now this was a stamped and fabricated piece from Stock Rod. It was then, looks like it's pressed on and then maybe peened on the end as far as how they put the lever in place. But as it is, it's a simple part, but it's one of those goofy parts that it's really nice to have on your rifle. Okay? So there you go. SKS parts readily available. They do have some. It's mostly the trinket and small parts. However, they do have the firing pins. They do have the SKS recoil springs. The springs are a big thing right now. If you can, grab one of each for your rifle, put them in your kit. One of the little tricks there is you can also, when you built that SKS back up, you could take your routing tool very carefully and put another channel underneath the channel for your cleaning kit. And when you paint everything, you can even paint inside there if you want to on that particular hole. The other one I wouldn't. But what you do is when the time comes, those spare parts, whatever smaller ones, put them in a tube full of grease. and put them inside the buttstock and screw the buttstock on and when you need it it's there. Hey, that'd be kind of cool, wouldn't it? Yeah, yeah, there's little tricks we've done for years. If you pick a rifle up that we have it probably weighs a few ounces or an ounce more here and there because the little parts are on the rifle where they need to be. So when I need them I've got them. Even the shotguns, you open up that buttplate on the shotgun, you've got a channel for the stock bolt. there's so much space in there. There's a place where if you get a little plastic, you know, oil or tube bottle, you know, the oiler type, you know, for the number four mark one, the M14 or whatever, all these little pins and springs that are small enough that will fit in there. Why? They go inside that with some oil or with grease or lubricant. And by the way, oils hate to have in the field. So you use the oil or lubricant that you'll normally use on the weapon. Put that inside. seal everything up. It's fluid tight, air tight, and it goes in the buttstock. Now when you need it, you've got a couple other handy things there. And you've always got some more lubricant to work with. Hey, that's kind of cheating, isn't it? Yes, that's what we do. We cheat a lot around here. Anyway, SKS, carbine parts, that's AIMsurplus.com, AIMsurplus.com, then go to accessories and parts. Scroll down and then look at SKS accessories and parts. It's not a very long list and there's a picture of everything that's there. Now there's something else here, AR15, 545 by 39 AR15 parts. Don't know what they have, but we're going to find out. Let's see what they have left and available, if anything. Oh, well this is all upper end stuff. Ballistic Advantage 4.5, a 14.5 inch NFA barrel with nitride gas block. I'm not interested in that. Too short. 7.5, too short. 10.5, too short. And they had magazines. They're sold out. I'm not worried about the shorty shorty barrels. Not for any of my rifles because if I need that I'll go to a submachine gun or a light carbine or a I'll make something up with a pistol cartridge and have some fun that way. See what I mean? Otherwise I don't need a shorty barrel AR for anything or a shorty barrel AK. Shortest I would go is if I captured a Krenkoff. If I captured a Krenkoff in the warm dead hands of an enemy, I'd pick it up. I'll pick any weapon up they've got. But the Krenkoff, of course, it looks cool, but it was designed as an armored operator's gun for the weapon stations, guys. It's not your first choice in AKs, it just happened to be one of the many AKs that's out there in piles because they were with the BMP originally. In fact, it was built for supporting the BMP when it originally came out. That's the Krinkov, what's called the Krinkov, but it's a shorty AK with that really goofy flash hider. All flash hiders look goofy to a degree, we just want to acknowledge that. They're weird when people look at them. What the hell's that do? That's really funny looking. That looks funny on the end of your rifle. Yeah, well that's funny and I enjoy it. It's really laughable. Uh, whole still, it's gonna hurt a lot. There you go, you understand now? Anyway, other things, again, we haven't touched on this for a bit. We are headed towards the top. Nagot rifles. There are still some out there, but the Nagots, of course, have hovered up towards the 150 range. There are a few for about 130. The less expensive ones have been absorbed and eaten almost immediately. In fact, right, oh my god, oh. Let me find something reasonably priced. Car beans about $210 to $240 to $250. I love the little car bean they got, but it's not my first choice. It works, but with a folding bandit, kind of handy to pig stick somebody. It should be cheaper than the bolt rifle, the standard full rifle, but obviously it's commanding a bigger price because it's shorter. Everybody thinks it looks cooler. Anyway, whatever you're using, if you're using the short barrel NAGOT, a little idea, Tapco made some flash hiders, or you could improvise from a number of different parts companies a 30 caliber flash hider that would lock onto that sight system and reduce a lot of that forward flash in front of your eyeballs at night when you're trying to use that weapon. Okay, just something to think about there. Anyway, a couple other things. Before I leave AIM surplus, one last thing. They've got some 1903A3 stripped actions. Stripped receiver and bolt action. Hell, they even took the extractor off the bolt. The extractor retaining sleeve is there, the clip. But it's otherwise brand new, refinished slash a complete 1903A3 bolt and receiver still gonna have to scrounge up almost every stinking part for the gun because it looks like even took the firing pin the Charger what the hell else is probably everything internally no springs, okay? But it's $120 for the basic component there and if you've got a bunch of the 1903 a 3 Springfield parts laying around Build yourself up a real nice rifle there somebody obviously needed some parts so they did Well, they sold the parts and made some bucks off them is what they did because the receivers probably weren't moving as fast. Anyway, a couple other things I was going to leave, but there was one more thing here in magazines. Apparently now we're trying to get the Croatians to kill somebody, or we need friends, or we're trying to buy friends from other parts of the planet. You'll notice a bunch of Croatian stuff is showing up. Remember what I said with Turkey? Watch for Croatia to start showing up in the news of some mercenary prostitute that's going to be killing somebody for us. Everybody ready for that? You can tell in the arms industry the Turks were never have them bringing guns in all of a sudden the canic Whole bunch other guns by Turkey were brought in and then they were talking about helping to kill the Syrians remember Which kind of backfired and they didn't it didn't go the way they planned so now they're trying to blame Israeli produced Israeli made Israeli backed is is on Turkey Well, the Croats, a whole bunch of stuff is coming in from Croatia. So let Mark tell you again, watch for Croatia to be some prostitute in some incident or we got them out there to kill somebody because the Croatians are willing to, you know, for being, you know, to be cheap whores and go out and do something stupid. Then they're going to piss them on about how they got caught up in the affair. And how could this happen? How could this do? Oh my God! I don't know! Again, mark my word on this. But, Croatian mags are coming in, even several weapons that have not been available before, and a whole bunch of, quote, surplus. More on that as I find out what all has been coming in through the system because there's a whole bunch of stuff that just hit the beach running here only a short time ago. And again, it's the last couple of days. They haven't even gone through all the containers yet, but it's Croatian. So the Croatians are going to be either helping to get the war started in the Ukraine, most likely they're up in that neck of the woods, they probably got the Croatians ready to step in and fabricate something and to blame the Russians for or to blame the Eastern Ukrainians for, they're up in that stretch and the Croats were notorious in the early days of the Balkan separation for, shall we say, fanning the flames in a number of different areas and being useful tools. So pay attention, something's coming there, not a matter if, just a win. One more time, it's aimsurplus.com for the SKS parts. There are numbers 888-748-5252. That's 888-748-5252. That's 888-748-5252. Now, as far as surplus goes, again, I'm Seeing something that definitely look like it's looking like it'd be worthwhile. I actually told several of our friends about this. I don't know if they're gonna follow through, but well the one surplus wholesaler that has the gas masks, no email there yet, also has the Austrian Webgear system at a really stupid, ridiculous, cheap price. Now, what is it? Well, it's the equivalent to their version of the Alice pack and the Alice system combined with the pistol belt and 8 suspenders and both a small day pack which is bigger than a Fanny pack, actually about twice the size, and a full size combat pack and the total package is $13. They're nylon, they are military Austrian issue. They've just put them on sale and they are a pretty good little package. The pistol belts are just like the US. They use a plastic keeper with an Austrian badge symbol on the front. They are kind of unique. What would I say? Uniq! There you go. They're Uniq kids. Yeah, yeah, and Yuki anyway, what's cool is that they are very well built. It's typical for the TA. All of our TA-90 gear, any of our Vietnam-era gear, will all work with the Austrian gear. It's $13, $12.99, I'll throw the penny in, Austrian Army four-piece backpack set. The backpack is about the size of an Alice Between an Alice medium and an Alice large. It actually is closer or headed towards an Alice large. The butt pack, fanny pack combination is bigger. Just a hair smaller than an Alice medium. Actually, I'd say a math, a third smaller, but it's definitely twice the size of a regular fanny pack. The whole system for the pistol belt, the suspenders, the backpack, and the smaller pack $13 total military issue. So again, similar to the US Alice backpack which I just said. Nylon construction comes with large main pack, one small butt pack which ain't that small. The harness and the pistol belt used in very good condition. Large pack measures 16.5 by 17.5 by 7 deep. The small pack measures 13.5 by 15 by 4.5 deep. I'll call for availability and quantity on this. Now one of the other things that's just come in is a massive number of DPM British camouflage backpacks. They're all military, also Dutch military combat packs have just come in. Dutch Army issue tactical backpack, heavy duty core durum material, padded straps, carry handle, two other side pockets, and the outer pockets, etc., used in very good excellent condition. And they're wanting more of a price for it, but these are, again, a much larger system in general. We've had these years ago, we've got a whole unit outfitted with these because I bought a truckload of them years ago. but they have the other sizes and they progressively get monster in size. In fact, the large is bigger than an Alice large. It's more like a commando pack if you're familiar with the old commando pack. This probably is. Looks like it's got MOLLE strap systems on it though so it's newer still. and the price is pretty reasonable. I have to check to see what they want for those but I just got a notice on them. So there's some new items, stuff coming in all the time, never know what it's going to be in the surplus. Personally if I was outfitting a lot of troops, $13 for the Austrian gear, you got everything you need right there. Now you start adding your canteen covers, you add your mag pouches, whatever mag pouch you're going to use. It's a TA-90 type kit. A lot of our troops are using that because they don't want the belly the loaded up with junk because they're going to stay, you know, hit the ground and stay under cover. Assault troops or patrol troops or whatever the vest system works. The backpacks, these appear to be actually mostly Dutch. There's one British but the rest are all Dutch. We're going Dutch on this one. Yeah, we are. We're going Dutch. They're pretty cool. Anyway, other than that, we are at the top. There's a couple of things I want to touch on, but don't worry. We got another hour coming up here. Uh, most important as I said this morning, uh, web here. If you have a certain weapon system you're using, make sure that you match up your web gear. If you got a pouch that's like 10 inches deep and you're trying to get a 5-round stripper clip, you want it to be found with your hand stuck in that dead in the field because you couldn't get your hand back out because you were like that monkey trying to grab that piece of candy in the jar and holding his fist to it, trying to pull back up on the top of that pouch pocket, and he got stuck. And meanwhile, the guy comes up and just clubs you to death with his buttstock because he doesn't want to waste ammo because you look really stupid with that pressure surprise interface. We don't want that, do we? No, we want the right gear on our person so we can make the fight work. God bless to the Republic, the help of the New World Order we shall prevail, ladies and gentlemen. The Empire is on the run, we're on a march! Top of the hour break here, we'll be back in just a little bit. Second hour of the intel report, it's Weapon Wednesday. Revolution. Thank you for listening to LibertyTreeRadio.4MG.com. We all need to prepare ourselves. You might have the food, water, gold and silver, but ask yourself, are you truly prepared? That's why you need to visit MaineMilitary.com. MaineMilitary.com carries everything you need. Gas masks, fire starter kits, high capacity magazines, chemical suits, military surplus items, and much more. Do you own a firearm? MainMilitary.com has a large selection of pistols and rifles suited for your needs. Are your local stores sold out of ammunition? Call or visit them today for prices on hard to find ammo and bulk ammo orders. You don't need to worry about having a military surplus store in your area because MainMilitary.com is the only store you'll ever need, all from the comfort of your computer. Visit them online today at MainMilitary.com. That's Main, like the state, Military.com. A figure walked in through the mist with a flintlock in his hand. His clothes were torn and dirty as he stood there by my bed. He took off his three-cornered hat, and speaking low to me, he said, We've fought a revolution to secure our liberty. We wrote the Constitution as a shield from tyranny. For future generations, this legacy we gave. In this, the land of the free and home of the brave. The freedoms we secured for you we hoped you'd always keep. The tyrants labored endlessly while your parents were asleep. Your freedom's gone, your courage lost, you're no more than a slave. In this the land of the free, in home of the brave. You buy permits to travel and permits to own a gun. Permits to start a business or to build a place for one. On land that you believe you own, you pay a yearly rent. Although you have no voice in saying how the money is spent, your children must attend a school that doesn't educate, and your Christian values can't be taught according to the state. You read about the current news in a regulated press, and you pay a tax you do not owe to please the IRS. Your money is no longer made of silver nor of gold. You trade your wealth for paper so your life can be controlled. You pay for crimes that make our nation turn from God and shame. You've taken Satan's number. You've traded in your name. You've given government control to those who do you harm so they could burn down churches and seize the family farm. And keep our country deep in debt. Put men of God in jail. Harash your fellow countrymen while corrupted courts prevail. Your public servants don't uphold the solemn oaths they've sworn.