Live 365. Your freedom's gone, your courage lost, you're no more than a slave. In this, the land of the free and home of the brave. You buy permits to travel and permits to own a gun. Permits to start a business or to build a place for one. On land that you believe you own, you pay a yearly rent. Although you have no voice in saying how the money's spent. Your children must attend a school that doesn't educate. And your Christian values can't be taught. according to the state. You read about the current news in a regulated press, and you pay a tax you do not owe to please the IRS. Your money is no longer made of silver nor of gold. You trade your wealth for paper so your life can be controlled. You pay for crimes that make our nation turn from God and shame. You've taken Satan's number and you've traded in your name. You've given government control to those who do you harm so they could burn down churches and seize the family farm and keep our country deep in debt. Put men of God in jail. Harash your fellow countrymen while corrupted courts prevail. Your public servants don't uphold the solemn oaths they've sworn. And your daughters visit doctors so their children will be born. Your leaders send artillery and guns to foreign shores and send your sons to slaughter fighting other people's wars. Can you regain the freedoms for which we fought and died? Or don't you have the courage or the faith to stand with pride? And are there no more values for which you will fight to save? Or do you wish your children to live in fear and be a slave? Oh, sons of the Republic, arise, take a stand, defend the Constitution, the Supreme Law of the land, preserve our great Republic in each God-given right, and pray to God to keep the torch of freedom burning bright. As Iowoki vanished in the mist for whence he came, his words were true. We are not free, but we have ourselves to blame. For even now as tyrants trampled each god given right, we only watch him tremble, too afraid to stand and fight. If he stood by your bedside in a dream while you were asleep and wondered what remains of the freedoms he'd fought to keep, what would be your answer if he called out from the grave? This is still the land of the free flesh you. Evening ladies and gentlemen, this is the Evening Intelligence Report. I'm Mark Kornke. And, better enough, one day closer to victory for all of our brothers and sisters, both on and behind the lines in occupied territories, Central, West, Southeast, and Southwest. Well, ladies and gentlemen, you are listening to us on LibertyTreeRadio.4mg.com, pbn.4mg.com, and we are on live 365. Then go to Liberty Tree Radio. We're also on AM&FM micro stations, CB base stations, and ultra net technologies both east and west of the Mississippi, along with southern and central Alaska. We were on the Hallmark Network on the Eastern Seaboard from the top of Maine to the bottom of Florida. From the bottom of Florida across the arc of the Gulf of Mexico, headed towards Louisiana, Texas, Oklahoma, a smidgen of Nebraska, the third of Wyoming, Iowa slash Iowa, and then over with the Golden Spike Project, the Blue Ridge Mountains, and across the whole of the length of the Smoky slash the Blue Ridge. Well anyway, a bunch of areas all through the east coast. And that makes up the Golden Spike Project. Remember, party on the beach on Saturday, party on the beach on Saturday, party on the beach on Saturday, and meeting at the restaurant on Sunday, meeting at the restaurant on Sunday, meeting at the restaurant on Sunday on the east coast. And it's going to be pretty busy, but I'll tell you what, BK, it's a special day today. What day is it, sir? It is 25 June 2010. It is Friday evening and is the last hour of the day and of the week for the intelligence report. And that makes this Quartermaster's Corner. No way! Way, dude! As a matter of fact, we have a special guest here with us too tonight. We've got Captain Monahan, one of our Signal Communications Officers and with an Officer in the Wolverine Militia Corps, Wolverine Militia here in Michigan. Pretty busy in general across the planet here, but Jim's been working on new transportation solutions. We're going to be talking about that a little bit too, tying it with Quartermaster, but we got a couple subjects. We know BK wanted to get through tonight, and so I want to make sure we cover that. Jim's going to be here with us pretty much for the hour. We got him trapped. I handcuffed him to the cherries, and so he really can't get away. And the leg iron works really well. He'll have to settle down and actually pay attention for a little bit without getting away from us. Anyway, it sounds like you had a beat there. Do we have anybody else? Yeah, George from Texas. This is continuing on what you're talking about, I'll wait. Very good. I'll tell you what. Well, BK, you've got a couple of subjects we wanted to make sure that you touched on. Actually, finished up from where we started the last Quartermaster session. Let's remember, that Quartermaster, or Quarter, well, BEEP, actually as they're also called, is the key core to maintaining a military force in the field, guys, a military presence. It gets everything from bullets and beans to Bibles and baseball bats. You name it, if it's out there, A to Z, it has to be moved by the Quartermaster. So, We want to make sure we have that system covered and that particular MOS covered and taken care of. That's how we're going to do that, help pitch in. They're making it possible for you to get the job done. So BK, what do you got for us this evening? Well, I have a few odds and ends. Today I just received a Midway Flyer, so I figured we might try a couple of shopping notes. One of the things that jumped out at me on this one, They are advertising the availability of new Winchester 380 brass. They are offering this at $162 per 1000. So it's nobody's idea of a super duper cheap bargain. But $380 has been in short supply recently. So I would call people's attention to the fact that Midway is advertising the availability of new Winchester 380 brass at $162 per 1000. No quick note on that gee that's the price we used to buy ball ammo for Yeah, the world has changed people as we if we did everybody did what we'd asked him to and bought ammunition back when the price was like this Now the price is like this And you'd actually could just sell one or two boxes or something and then you can sit on everything else and go I'm happy Anyway, go ahead. I know there's more there Well, I remember looking at the ads and thinking they want to buck a pop for that 50PMG stuff. I'm not going to get into that. Am I crazy? You know, a dollar a pop? Come on, what are they thinking? Oh well, how are perceptions change over time? A couple of other things that popped out at me from this particular flyer. This is nothing new, but they are still offering the Lee Cast Classic. This is a large heavy duty O-ring press. They are offering this in the usual packages, either the Bear Press or bundled with 50 BMG dies. Right now they are offering this thing at $170 for the package, the O-Press and the dies. Obviously you can pay a lot more for dies so there are going to be people who argue, I'm sure it will work. at 170, this is within reach. So I would like nobody to say, oh gee, I cannot afford at least a press. And bear in mind that if you have no press available at all, I would recommend a single large heavy duty O-ring as a starting point. This will be very, very tedious if you get into trying to reload thousands of pistol rounds, etc. and the very heavy presses are not all that suitable for the smallest cartridges. You would probably not want to attempt 25 ACP on a big old single stage press like this. You wouldn't be able to feel when you were completely crushing the case. But to get started, there's a single piece of equipment that will cover the largest range of calibers that you can get, albeit a little bit on the tedious side for those that do not need that much beef. These are available and they are not total budget busters. If you can scrape up 170 bucks you can get a press that will handle your heavy belted magnums all the way down to light carbine rifle rounds and some of the pistol rounds. So that is the Lee Cast Classic S and they do offer that either stand alone for $77 or bundled with the 50 BMG dies at $170. The one other item that jumped out at me, this is a moderate sale. They are offering hammer forged 45 ACP barrels at $40 a piece, usual price is $50. That's a modest sale. The 1911s are not anybody's tack driver. You are not going to be attempting 200 yard shots with these guys. It may be argued that hammer forged barrels The barrel on one of those is gilding a lily a little bit. It will be tighter dimensional tolerances than a regular borel, which is entirely adequate. But it doesn't hurt to have something that's a little bit more precise in its dimensions, and the cost is not bad. So they're offering hammer forged 1911 barrels at $40. Now go ahead. Very good. Well again, the idea here is that for some people that are building the KT Ordnance Kits, this is an opportunity to pick up a pretty good barrel for a reasonable price, brand new. I've built a lot of .45s over the years using government standard, surplus used barrels. We've talked about sloppy and sloppy for a reason because the .45 was designed to be dropped in the mud, pulled out and still full of mud function. And that's pretty well guaranteed. The 1911 may not be the fanciest in its basic mode, but it gets the job done. The forged barrels are beautiful to implement to begin with. It's good that the price, if it's come down even $10, hey, that's a fifth less. That's not bad. A $40 price tag isn't bad for a brand new barrel in general. What was that? You can get regular GI barrels in the $30 to $35 range. This isn't much more than that. It's nice to get hammer forged. It's not necessarily as critical as it would be for a rifle barrel, but it's not bad to have. It's already been done, so it works just fine. It'll work for our purposes. Real quick, what was the manufacturer on the barrel? Did it say? It does say, but I'm not turned to that page and I did not recognize the brand name off the top of my head when I saw it. Very good. If you want me to find, oh, Swenson. Oh, okay. No, they made good barrels. At least they made barrels that have been serviceable. I haven't heard any complaints. Okay, I don't know the name, so I'll just take your word for that. So what else we got? Go right in. Okay, the larger topic that I've been trying to get to for a while, and it has not fit into time in the past, is the one I'm going to touch on right now. Excuse me, a few months ago we did a little mini-series on this program. We talked about semiconductor power circuitry. Specifically, we were discussing Ohm's law and why we use pulse width modulation. in certain circuits. Motor controllers, DC to DC down converters, and pure sine wave inverters. And we discussed a fairly simple design one can use for an open loop pure sine wave inverter and explained how this can be done entirely in analog electronics with not all that many parts. Well, that's the semiconductor approach. That has a lot of advantages. It is by far the least expensive way of doing the inverter task. It runs very quietly and has no moving parts and so on. This is a very popular way of doing things commercially. But it is not the only technology available. Sometimes the best technologies are determined not so much by the the technology but by the expertise of the people using them. That is, if you are accustomed to using a hammer, you are going to use a hammer in a lot of circumstances where somebody else might use a different tool. It is not necessarily a bad choice if the choice is applicable to some degree and that is what you have on hand and are familiar with. Some of us are more comfortable with, than we are with, spooky electronics where you can't see any of the moving parts. because all the moving parts are the size of an electron. There is another technology by which we can produce pure sine wave alternative electrical system, presumably a DC system. This is in fact the older technology and was in use in the early 20th century. We used this in many places across Europe and we had different things to deal with. The concept is quite simple. You simply use a generator head like we are accustomed to using in our gasoline fired gen sets for it. But instead of driving that with an internal combustion engine, we run it with, say, a DC motor. In this fashion, we can convert DC to a pure sine wave H, which is much gentler to our alike, and is also gentler to some of our mechanicals. electric motors and so on can be driven on a square wave, but it generates an awful lot of echne and wheel tint, make them run hot and fail earlier. This has the advantage of producing a really pure sine wave. There is nothing jaggedy about the output of a rotating generator. There are some advantages and some disadvantages. If you run a gen set of this sort, a motor generator set, you can expect some efficiency problems. The DC motor that you run is going to have some losses. Wheel of thumb is expected to be about 80% efficient if you drive it well. And the generator that you are spinning will also have some losses. This is pretty much intrinsic. There are mechanical friction losses and so on. And if you are running a belt system, rather than a system, you can expect some losses in that linkage as well. So the rule of thumb I would propose is that you should expect this end to end. The advantages are that most of the work of setting up one of these things is mechanical work, which is more understandable to some people than the pure electronics. You can see if the thing is working because it's sitting there spinning and you can tell whether it's healthy. If it's making noise you can say, oh okay the bearings are starting to go bad. I know that there's a problem here. It is electrically very quiet in that it does not generate intrinsically a lot of RF hash. and this sort of stuff, it produces an excellent sine wave that's not going to cause problems for your downstream electronics. Here's a factor that people don't think about too much. If you have a considerable spinning mass of the generator itself, the motor shaft, so on, that mass constitutes a flywheel. If you have intermittent loads for or refrigerator compressors and so on which switch on from time to time. Those will present a big spike in the draw of your system for a short period while they get up to space. A semiconductor inverter has to be sized to cope with that and a lot of them do not cope very well with that sort of surge demand. spinning motor generator system because of all the energy that is wrapped up in the motion of the whole assembly has a certain amount of margin for these surges. It will slow down a little bit when you apply extra load. It will not instantly. And as a result, it has some surge capability that you perhaps not find in especially the cheapest of the semiconductor inverters. Now, what are the approximate arithmetic factors that we need to concern ourselves with? Well, you've got two major pieces. You've got a motor that's driving it. This would be a DC motor, presumably running at higher voltages a little bit better because you don't need the heavier wiring. You can get a lot of 24 and some 36 and some 48 volt DC motors. The conversion that people need to keep in mind is that 1 kilowatt is approximately 1.4 horsepower. So while you're interested in drawing kilowatts off of the system, you will routinely see DC motors rated in horsepower. So maintain that 1.4 number in mind. 1.4 horsepower to 1 kilowatt, approximately. Now, where can we get DC motors to do this sort of thing? The generator heads are not that difficult. We get one on every commercial gasoline gen pack and we can buy them straight off the shelf, the low end units from China Sport. It will cost you about $300 for a unit that's rated for 10 kilowatts. You will have and you can go. But the hard part is the DC motors. Unfortunately, there are other markets that we can sponge off of for hunting for DC motors. At the low end, we have recently seen increased availability of motors in the 1.5 horsepower range because of the electric scooter market. So 1.5 horsepower motors, generally designed for 12 or 24 volt DC, can be had right now for about $50. No. Now they come from China and it's anybody's guess how many hours these things are going to hold up. The major wear factor for an electric motor is not the electricals in fact. If it's got brushes you may want to consider having brushes on hand to replace. But I would expect the major risk factor or wear factor Pressing out a bearing and replacing a bearing is anything from routine to impossible, depending on the design of the motor. I can't tell you whether the average scooter motor is designed to allow you to do that, but $50 for one of these guys is not a horrendously huge price to a bare metal unit to fool around with. When we go up through the curve, there is then the golf The golf carts are very useful because people have been working on these for a long time and the parts chain is well developed and we can draw off of that. You can generally find golf cart motors in the range of 10 to 15 horsepower. Remember, 1.4 horsepower. If you're getting a 15 horsepower, you're basically looking at about 10 kilowatts, which is probably more than satisfactory for most people. If you want to go even higher than that, there are of course some enormous commercial motors available. You actually see those sometimes listed on eBay and so on. 50 horsepower DC motors and so things away a ton, literally. You'll have to hire a truck and a rigger and so on and so forth to get your hands on these things. The automotive conversion market is growing. There are more and more people now that are retrofitting electric motors and batteries into conventional automobiles or purpose-built automobiles. And because of that market, you can get 30 to 40 horsepower motors, typically somewhere in the $1,500 range, which sounds like a lot, but that's also an awful lot of motor. So there are markets that we can draw from for DC motors. in three different size and cost ranges. And remember, all other things being equal, you prefer a higher voltage so that you can use smaller wiring for the same current. If you want a kilowatt that you are going to need twice the cross-section, if you are going to run it at 24 volts, you will run half the voltage, you will need twice the current and vice versa. How do you put one of these things together? Well, it's pretty straightforward in principle. You set up the motor to drive the generator and you are generally going to do one of two things. You're either going to put them linearly and use a shaft drive or you're going to put them side to side with parallel axes and use a belt. There are arguments in each direction. Ideally, the absolute best way you could do this thing would be to have both of these guys on the same shaft. This would be perfect alignment, there would be no vibration, you just have a bearing on either end, conceivably one in the middle, but maybe not even that. But that's not likely to be something that you're going to be able to do. It almost has to be purpose built to work properly. What we're really going to be doing in the real world is putting together a generator from one market, an motor from another market and mating them. If we do these end to end, we can join those shafts in a number of ways. We can use a flexible coupling, you can use an automotive U-joint, you can use what's called a spider coupling, which has a couple of lines on one end and they engage with each other and they allow for a certain amount of misalignment to be in place and they will still turn. Of course you want to get these as close as you can to perfectly aligned and that may require a little bit of effort. Every degree of misalignment is going to be that much more wear and vibration and So whatever technique you want to do to join two shafts, you want to get those as closely aligned to perfect as. The other approach that you can use, which is perhaps easier to do in some ways, is a belt. Now the plus side of a belt is that it's very simple. If you need to adjust the relative devices, a belt and a system will let you do things with the speeds that you can't do with a shaft. If you have a joint shaft, both units have to spin at the same speed. The cheaper generator heads will be two pole generator heads, which means that for 60 Hz you are going to want to spin them at 3600 RPM. That is pretty high speed. If you have the choice, you would rather spin them at lower speed. A four pole generator will allow you to run at 1800 RPM. And if you have the speed you will far more than double the service life. This is a rule of thumb just because of the amount of energy that's being put into the bearings and the violence of any vibrations. Ideally you would have no vibrations but we don't live in the ideal world. If you do use a belt, the belt that we are most familiar with is the automotive V style belt that we've all seen under the hoods of our cars. Well, the reason that the automotive industry went with a V-Belt long, long ago, because the engine compartment of a vehicle tends to be a very greasy and dirty place. And it is far from a clean room. And you definitely need to apply the torque when you're using the engine to spin the alternators and the water pump and all that kind of good stuff. It's very important that you transfer that energy. Traditionally, they were not all that concerned with the energy efficiency involved. The notion was that whatever the efficiency of transmission is, you've got a lot of power, engine, or oil. Since then, there's much more focus on squeezing every little bit of fuel economy out of vehicles. Some attention has been paid to the designs of the belts. Well, some happens with the V-belt actually dissipates a fair amount of the energy it transmits. It's very, very good at high torque and it's very reliable. But that's a very thick belt that's flexing every time it goes around. And depending on circumstances it may actually be skidding a little bit in the pulley. All of these things add up and end up not only wearing out the belt faster but also dissipating energy. That's something you'd prefer not to do. So in an ideal world, if you can, it is much more efficient to use a flat stuff than it is to use a V. That means you have to get your pulleys lined up properly so the belt doesn't walk off the end of your pulley. If you do that, you will transmit the energy more efficiently. I'll recall photographs or drawings of cultural equipment, for instance. The steam engines were driving threshers in the field. The pumps in the mines, things of this sort, are used flat and there's a reason for that. One is that it's easier to make if you're making it out of weather. Two is that that is the most efficient style of belt to use. You don't lose a lot of energy in flexing the belt more than you need to. If you go with a belt, try to go with a flat belt design if you can. The V-Belt, while familiar, is not necessarily the most efficient. They're not necessarily looking at the automotive industry and saying, well these guys must know what they're doing, I guess I'll go with the way they did it. Their trade-offs and their considerations are different from your trade-offs and considerations. And so it's worthwhile going to the flat belt if you can. The puzzle is how do you drive this motor and maintain the speed at the correct level? Once again, we can sponge off of existing industries for an operational model. Anybody who listened to our previous mini-series on pulse width modulation will be familiar with that concept. DC motor speed controllers are a well-known mechanism. You can buy them nuked or industrial channels. You can buy them used surpluses that we've mentioned. them right off the shelf. People have taken them out of surplus or they are overruns. There is another market that visited recently and we can sponge off of this one as well. Those golf carts that we spoke of use this technique. The controllers for the golf carts are almost exactly what we are looking for. for this market. So just as an example, if you go wandering around on eBay for instance, you will discover that for somewhere between $50 and $200, depending on brand and other variables, and sometimes somebody will make a typo in the listing and you will make out like a bandit because nobody else will see that listing. For somewhere between $50 and $200, you can buy a motor speed controller for a golf cart. which will typically be rated at something like 30 volts and 100 amps. Now that is 3 kilowatts and you're looking at something on the order of a 5 horsepower motor. You can purchase these units as much as 100 to 800 amp ratings starting around $400 to $500 but you probably won't need one that big. But these devices are exactly what we're talking about. They are pulse-width modulated motor controllers. They tend to have a lot of extra functions that you don't necessarily need. They're called braking because they assume that you're in a golf cart, you take your foot off the pedal, you don't want the thing rolling down the hill. All of this stuff is actually done in the motor controller. But you can use a subset of the functions of these motor controllers and control a very, very deep electric motor very easily. Somebody else can do all of the power electronic design work. All you have to do is bolt this thing down to a nice big heat sink so that it can dissipate a certain amount of waste electrical waste heat and follow the schematic or the user's manual and hook up the appropriate leads and you are good to go. As an off-the-shelf module, look for and General Electric is in the market. I would say probably a half dozen different vendors that all deal with the electric cart or golf cart. Probably the easiest way to get a regulated speed controller for a project like this would be to use one of these golf cart controllers. They are usually set up to use a a variable resistor as the speed control commander and twist a grip on your scooter or push the pedal on your golf cart. So you would need a feedback control mechanism. Actually move a variable resistor or emulate a variable resistor so that the motor speed controller knows what you want it to do, whether you want it to speed up or slow down. But that is not terribly complex electronic. And doing things in this fashion, 95% of the work at least is mechanical. If you get to that 95% point and it's time for a solder head to come in and help you, well, you will have done most of the work already. And you get the motor and the generator all lined up and spinning and not vibrating and so on and so forth. You've done enough of that work. that you can then call in your buddy with a soldering iron and say, okay, what do we have to do to finish this up? So that in general it would probably cost you $1000 or $2000 to build a decently sized motor generator and you would end up with a device which is less efficient than the semiconductor devices but is perhaps a bit more understandable and does have the advantage of being transient load tolerance as we discuss. The spinning mass there will make this tolerant of many of the ill-behaved loads that cause our semiconductor inverters to sometimes have fits. This is the DC to pure sine wave AC conversion technique that we call a motor generator and this also is an available tool. to any of us setting up an alternative energy system. That is my little show and tell in presentation. Questions or comments? You covered it very well. The thing I could add is not much. You probably... I'm sorry, Captain. I can't hear you very well. I can tell only that you're speaking. Okay. You covered it very well. Oh, thank you. What I look for in motors is for longevity is grease fitting on the bottom or a plug on the bottom you got unscrew it in and you pump new grease in it doesn't blow the seals out and the old grease will come out the bottom and you got a lifetime motor you know other than the brush problem. Right, Mark and I have discussed this in the past some of the newer machinery. will tend to have so-called lifetime sealed bearings, which is probably a good choice if you have inattentive operators of the machinery. If you have grease seals that you can access and oil points and so on, that equipment will be destroyed very, very rapidly if your attentive fabricate that stuff on a regular basis. It will ask you pretty much for, this is sort of a trade-off between good operators that operation with a good operator, the ability to get in there and grease that stuff will make your equipment last forever. I'm off the grid and I use copper pipe for my 12 volt and I left the ends open, I connected with braid folded over three times and two aircraft type clamps on each side clean it real well and I got enough connection here that's probably more than equal to the copper pipe. I use the mid grade copper pipe, there's L, M and another one. The other one is real expensive. I didn't use that. I used the heavier grade of your regular half inch water pipe. Then you can clamp little clips on like you have on a battery charger. Buy some of them and you can put lights wherever you need it. I got a shop. It's 30 by 50 with a 12 foot ceiling. I got from Harbor Freight. They don't have them anymore. I don't know. U.S. General makes them, I guess. made in China like everything else and I got 60 LEDs and I have one at one end of the shop at the ceiling and it shines to the floor at the other end and then I do the opposite on the other side and I could it's like bright moonlight in there and I got regular light switches on them and only draws three watts and I light up the whole shop so at least you don't stumble then where I want more lights I just ordered some 72 LED ones that take six volts, well six volts they're four AA batteries. And instead of that, I just put two of them in series and I'll have them by each machine. And it works out well. What I did is, I have my regular wires going through a trough made out of the foot for the industrial type of steel studs. It's about 3.5 x 3.5, something like that. I formed the corners and I hung it with a strap, a piece of steel, about 10 gauge, 3 quarter inch wide, bent to bottom. And then it fastens with a little bolt to one of these, it looks like a lag screw, but no head is flattened and it's got a hole in it for holding up false ceilings. So I put a little 10-32 bolt through there with an I-lock nut and that holds that screw into the ceiling. It drops down two feet. The thing is bent on the bottom and what I did is notch one piece of this stuff. It's just three sided metal and shoved the one piece into it. So one side's on the outside, one's on the inside. and put a bolt through the bottom and a couple bolts on the side. Then later on, I got some micarta. I bought a board of micarta. And it's 5 1�8 inch thick by one inch and eight inches long pieces. And I screw two bolts to the bottom of these pans acrosswise. And I got a single hole clamp on each end that hangs down and a copper pipe goes through them. Now you can find I checked some places and the price has really gone up but like at Ace Hardware someplace. you can get corner pieces where you could actually... the flare fittings with the... not flare, with the little ring that you can put compression fittings right angle or straight. But I choose to only use the straight on straight run so that I can pull heavier wire through and leave the ends open. I could actually add to my cross-sectional area there. And then right now I'm operating a microwave 50 feet away. from the source and I couple it with number two watt cable on each end and I bear three inches of it and put several clamps on there so I get a lot of contact. And what I may do is put a battery on the other end, I'll cut my copper losses in half. and I got four solar panels that are on a rack that I push out through. I was going to go through a top of a sliding door. I got a slot in it four inches deep and eight feet wide and slide them out so I wouldn't have to open a door in the winter, but I don't want them out there covered with snow or when it's crappy out. I found out that these 65 watt ones that I got, BP ones, They rated them at the equator at noon and mine are giving me a full 50 watts of these. I measured 13.57 or something like that, forget the numbers, and I was getting 15 amps. So it works out real well. I don't even use it every day. And I operate it... Right, 50 versus 65 rated is not too bad when we move away from the ideal conditions like that. Yeah, and they're just laid flat. They're not... I don't prop them up or anything like that and it works fine. I got more juice than I need during the summer. And now during the winter, what I do is I make three phase from single phase that run my machines, or I do that all year round. But what I'll do is put a charger on the generator. I use single phase to begin with, because a lot of my machines are single phase. And then what I can do is... Oh, I'm lost here. I'm trying to cover too much ground. But it works out pretty well. Well, I know what I do. During the winter when I get less sun I'll just charge, I'll slide them out when it's nice out and pull them back in so they aren't covered with ice and all that. I don't want to have to chip ice off them or anything and practically maybe ruin the panels or scratch them. But I found out that even in the rain I was getting 30 watts off of it. 200 watts with the four panels, it was 50 watts a piece. So I was even getting 30 watts in the rain and I was just laid flat. and I was getting 50 on a cloudy day, 50 watts off the whole deal. So they charge from, they begin charging a half hour before the sun comes up and they quit charging a half hour after the sun goes down. Not very much, but they're doing something. And then I use LED, them tent lights. I put them in series, they're made for four batteries. I put two of them in series and hung them from a piece of half inch thin wall. Hey Jim? Yeah. Thought about the solar panels during the winter you can cover them with a Lexan or even the Saran Wrap type plastic and if you get ice or snow on them all you got to do is pop it off, shake it and replace it or put the stuff back on it so it fits a heavier gauge. That's a good idea, yeah. Yeah, but I didn't want to get out there and chip ice off and all that crap and see when I run my machines while I'll be charging a battery I can just put a charger on there as long as the engine's run a lot of times as idling you know when you're not running a lathe or if you're not taking a cut or something it's just turning some gears and the chuck or a drill press and it might as well be charging the batteries in. And then everything I got is diesel and I'll probably use a, I got some 4KW diesel generators made for signs. We got them out of a junkyard. We'll hope to get at least a couple of them running. and they've made an England peder, a lister and peder combined at one time and we like to get some of them going so that we can store fuel for a long time and not pour around with something so explosive as gas. I don't like using a gas generator, in fact mine's out on a trailer with a heavy cable coming in into the shop area because I could burn the whole place down very easily. Aside from the safety issue, gasoline is a little harder to store for significant periods of time than diesel. The engines tend to be a little bit more violent if you can get one of the slower, especially the one, I greatly admire the one cylinder Lister engines. I would love to have one of those run these things at 650 or 700 RPM. There are Listers that have been in service continuously for 40 years with no major rebuilds of any sort. By running big heavy cast iron assemblies like that under stress and at low speed, you can end up with a very reliable machine for a very long time. The EPA has become involved and has forbidden the import of Lister engines anymore. There are many shops in India that produce them and the EPA is protecting us from purchasing those those machines so there are scarce on the market. So if you've got a lister or a patter or multiples that's something to hold onto and value because they're not as easily replaceable as you might think. Well I got tired of starting a generator and I tried everything. I tried Coleman Landers, they're dangerous as heck and they burn a lot of fuel and usually there's two deals with them. Well I want to get some single ones you can find them. Maybe they make them other brands. But if you don't have two of them you got large shadows and they draw quite a bit. They use a lot of fuel and the fuel is up to ten dollars a gallon so I've decided not to go that way. And the LEDs are great. Now they're not perfect light. I'd rather have My next best would be these high intensity bulbs. They're made to handle up to 16 volts. And these little lamps, they used to have a little transformer. You'd plug them in and put them on your desk. Usually with a swing drain on them. But the bulbs that go in there, I like to get a bunch of them. Because you get a lot of light out of them, they'll draw an amp or so. So you got 12 watts there, roughly. The driving circuits for those will of course be designed for 120 volt AC unless you modify them. Right. And that brings us back to our topic of generating AC. There will be some things that you will want to run off AC. Certainly LEDs, if you have DC supply available, are a more efficient method of doing it than turning around and converting to 120 and then converting back to DC and so on. You don't want to do all those round trips if you can avoid it. There will always be a certain amount of equipment that you have to run off of AC as well. So, no rest for the wicked. We don't get to have any single solution that covers all bases. Well, what's neat is I've got my first little DVD player was just for movies. Now they make one for about 90 bucks or so. You get truck stops for play the music and the movies. And they operate off 12 volts. And then I just got a little TV that's digital and it's even got a little slot in the back for your control, you know, your remote. and that's about the same size when I'm a little elite or you know one of those other deals or you know maybe a screen about four by six inches color and and that was $89 or something on sale at Kmart a guy told me about and the antenna the whip antenna will pull off pull straight off and you can put a coax the 72 ohm coax So what I want to do is have a little something I can rotate up there and I'd be able to get a lot of stations around just for to see what the rats are up to and the weather and things like that. but I don't really much care about the programs. Anyway, so that runs on practically nothing. Then I've got a 12, I've got one that draws 50 watts. It's a VHS color TV, but it'll copy and everything. That draws 50 watts, but the other ones, I don't think they draw 10 watts, you know. So I can watch movies, I can listen, you know, the whole thing. And all the ham stuff is more... Made to run on 12 volts not really though. I've gotten some the high comms are pretty good They'll run down to 10 volts without burning up, but some of the other Japanese stuff I always said other big name I can't remember it, but they tell you not to run it below 12.6 Well if your batteries are going down here below it. You know I tell you what guys before we go any farther here something else. We've got an event starting Tomorrow, so let everybody know about that ham radio Yeah, the hams it's been a fun thing and it's a preparedness exercise being going on since the 20s. All the hams get together. It was a fun thing. I really remember in Traverse City we did a Cherryland radio club in the 50s and had a little beer there, whatever, you know some clubs don't allow it, but nobody got nuts. And just a great thing. I used to watch these Navy. Anyway, they operated on all frequencies with different tents. That's the way they set up then. One tenet would be for voice, the other one would be for code. And they go around the clock. It's a contest. See how many contacts you can make. And now they're at dominoes. We got every frequency going. Even one up at 1200 megahertz or something like that. ICOM only made 50 of these units. The guy found one on the internet for $2500. So far it's costing about $100 of contact. It's a 10 watts in a box. But it's 10 watts in a box, but he likes the VHF and he's got six meters too. All the hand bands, you know, and it's just a lot of fun for the guys. So this means that everything is going to be lit up this weekend, guys. This gives you a chance to plug in your systems. Just run all your wires and antennas and light everything up. Make sure the antennas are hooked up, otherwise you might hear... You know back there in the background. Help these guys rack up points. That's right exactly they get points for this now don't they Jeff? Oh yeah and if you run we ran on steam one you're out of steam engine going we got it going just to get an alternator we ran one on that and you get points for renewable energy because we were running firing it with wood and solar panels you get extra points for that too you know it's a fun thing. It's just always been a memorable event for me. So that's why they hijacked the people on the expressway and then chained them to the bicycle generators you guys had right there next to the petting zoo. Yeah, I got a couple of those World War II ones with a seat on. One's got the seat, it'll play around about a 10 watt transmitter and a receiver. And you see them in some of the old movies. You only get a glimpse, usually a guy will be cranking them. Some have a little seat, and one of them is made with a chain around it. You strap it to a tree and stand there and do it. Have you noticed that most of the time it was always a poor native? It's kind of neat. It's kind of like that guy they always see in the Indian movies is sitting there on the front porch pulling the rope that's moving the fan inside. You ever notice that? Everybody walks right by him like he doesn't even think about him. He's like part of the appliances. It's okay. You can sit there and you don't need any batteries to run it. So what are you going to say? Oh, actually they work. So that's what's really cool. We have George here. We got just a second here. George, what did you have for us real quick? Oh, well we may have ran out of it George. We may have lost George. Now let me, real quick here guys, let me give you an example. Check this out. I get to brag. Look at that. Aww, look. Do you see that on the U-stream? for those of you guys who don't know I'm not looking at you stream well it is a Shakespeare are you showing off one of your keyboard assistance if no no this is a 50 cent marine radio this is an example what I got at the yard sale today I got to matching and by the way it's a Shakespeare I can fish with it to know it's made by Shakespeare saying people to make reels and rods it's made for them but it's one of many and again as I said before guys look at the size You see how small? This thing is about 6 inches by 6 inches by 2.5 inches thick. It is the same size as a small box CB. However, you will notice something. For whatever reason, obviously because around the water it gets hot. Most of the radios are white. That's one thing you will notice about marine radios. You can get them in other colors, but typically they're white. Another cool thing is these are all weatherized. Everything where there's a contact point, if you were to go inside, you'll find there's a rubber seal. So these make great combat tactical radios. I will note something though that's really obvious about this one. Look at the size of the heat sink on the back of this thing. Oh my goodness, BK, it's Let's see, about 4 inches wide and about an inch and a half tall. And it's got 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 times. Hey, that's probably symbolic too there. A neat thing, again, a different thing to pay attention with. A lot of the marine radios, the mics are permanently affixed. Now they're just like a seabed bike. So you bought a heat sink with a little bit of radio attached. Yeah, exactly. These things obviously got a little, might have a little bit of energy behind it. Might be a nice little transmitter. So we're going to have to play with these this week, maybe this weekend. We'll see what happens. But guys, marine frequencies are another option. You can go to a number of different places, pick up the radios, grab the antennas. Cabela's has them. Any place that's got boats has them. Okay? So that's just how it works. Anyway, a lot of good stuff out there. Pay attention to the yard sales. Like I said, 50 cents a radio, guys. I paid a whole whopping dollar for two radios. That gives me one radio at one end and one radio at the other. There's a line right there. Now all I've got to do is grab myself an antenna and make myself up a power source like we've been talking about earlier here, which could be solar, it could be car batteries, it could be dry cell batteries, gel batteries, you name it, a converter with a wall wart, whatever I'm going to do, plugged into a car. These will go in a car just fine, just like a CB. And when you're done, you've got everything you need. Well, let's put it this way. Today we got Ed picked up a CB radio. We picked up a marine radio. I picked up a CB radio and I did pick up some seismic intrusion devices. A couple of, you know, trip line intrusion devices. New tape player, a new CD rack, one that you'll see be going up in the booth here on the video. I'll find a place to put it. You know, the walls are getting pretty well covered in there, aren't they? Yeah, and they're all with information. Everywhere we have either memorabilia or information. You can't see. We're going to have to swing the camera out to show everybody the LTR. Actually, I was thinking about that. You know, we got that slideshow we can put up now. I need to move the camera over there, take a shot of it, and then put it into the slideshow so that stuff comes up more often. We're probably going to get another bass tomorrow, too. There's another one over there. Yeah, I saw that. Another singing bass. Then we can do like a whole video with the bass, just disable the speaker and have it going the whole time while you guys are doing the program, and have the Mark Fink fish in the Don fish and they'll be doing the program back in here we go. Well as it is, BK anything else before we go? We're right up to the top just about. No, we're out of time. Very good. And again, this is Quartermaster Friday. Guys, supply and support, in this case, supplying energy. We gave you solutions. You can't complain about it. We got to catch him on hand here. He'll be up on the radio tomorrow, won't you, sir? Yes, sir. All of us together, one, two, oh wait, I'll tell you what, let's do it this way. You and me together, BKU, take care of the other end, right? God bless the Republic. Death to the New World Order. Death to the New World Order. We shall prevail. There we go. Thank you BK. Ok good evening. Go ahead and stop the Ustream feed. I mean the recording. Stop the recording not the broadcast. And we will be back next Monday and take it with the broadcasting and we will be going to Dutch. Yes, we have the sons, the sons of Liberty! Digger from the storm, boys, water down its roots with tea! And the sun will always shine on the old Liberty Tree! It's a tall old tree and a strong old tree! And we have the sons, yes, we have the sons, the sons of Liberty! Mark's still under the fight for porn, we were born for every treat! We'll pay the fight for boys, be the liberty tree It's a tall old tree and a strong old tree And we are the sons, yes we are the sons, the sons of liberty Pay the price, the rats, the barns Always pay the time and sleep Never give up the struggle boys, fight for the liberty tree It's a tall old tree and a strong old tree And we are the sons, yes we are the sons, the sons of liberty Stand for the rights of its own tyranny, free of rights from the liberty tree It's a tall tree and a strong, bold tree And we are the sons, yes we are the sons, of liberty No tea on the street, we must sing to our fate, the liberty, it's a tall A family protection, punching dangerous and delicious animals, keeping the king and England out of your pay. Government is not the solution to our problem. Government is the problem, is the problem. Where's a hit for you genius about this?